I went to the Central Command Post of the Air Defense Forces as an assistant to the chairman of the Duma Defense Committee, Lev Rokhlin. Whether by social work or press relations. You can't legally enter there otherwise.
Rokhlin was invited to visit by the air defense commander, Army General Viktor Prudnikov, to get acquainted. Rokhlin is an influential person in the Duma, it would not hurt to get to know him.
secret hills
The road to the military camp was surprisingly winding. I was about to ask the sentry at the gates of the military camp: why, they say, did not make a straight road? The soldier smiled indulgently. I, the ignorant, were told that this road was specially laid tortuously, even hills were poured, so that the path to the heart of the country's air defense control remained indistinguishable for enemy spy satellites. As the PVE officers later confirmed, 15 years ago (TsKP was built back in 1961), the exact location of such objects was determined from space along straight lines of roads. And the winding road from space was not visible. Today, the level of equipment of American spy satellites even makes it possible to determine the number of stars on the shoulder straps of an officer leaving the CCU building. And the sentry talked to me and did not ask for documents after that.
It seemed to me that the idea of security at the TsKP remained at the level of the 60s, when there was only one threat for a strategically important facility - external and only one possible adversary - American satellites and ballistic missiles. From the new reality, in which militants and saboteurs exist inside the country, the heart air defense obviously not protected.
The village of Bezmenkovo, next to which the Air Defense Central Control Center is located, is about a ten minute drive from the Moscow Ring Road along the Gorky Highway. You can also get there by train - to the Chernoye platform, and then by regular bus. There are no barriers, no patrols, no surveillance cameras at the entrance to the CCU. In front of the TsKP itself, there are several barriers guarded by sleepy sentries. An idle layman or an interested journalist, of course, will not be let through, but it is impossible to assume that the object is protected from professional terrorists.
The Central Control Center for Air Defense monitors all objects approaching the borders of the Russian Federation, as well as stationary nuclear installations of a potential enemy - with the help of spy satellites. In case of start nuclear attack the missile is detected two minutes after launch, which is immediately reported via special communication channels to the president, prime minister, defense minister and chief General Staff. The Air Defense Central Control Center also controls the air defense forces of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries. It also controls the systems for early warning of a nuclear strike and the launch of retaliatory missiles. In fact, this is the main element of the Russian nuclear umbrella.
Secret dungeon
One staircase, a corridor, another, then down, again to the right, down again ... We got to a huge door that looked like a safe door, with a wheel-handle like a steering wheel.
The sentry, not without effort, opened the bulkhead. The hum of the generators intensified. Further, the corridor became like the inside of a giant computer - wires, sensors, measuring instruments. I tried to ask one of the colonels about their appointment - he was indignant: “Have a conscience! You're not supposed to be here, and you still want something." At this point, we approached the elevator. Quite ordinary, which are usually found in high-rise buildings.
« Let's go- said General Sinitsyn, referring to the soldier in the elevator, - turn it on for the second". On the way, Sinitsyn said that there were only two shafts leading to the facility - a cargo one with one elevator and a passenger one with two. Passenger elevators are four-speed, the maximum speed is 8 m/s.
It didn’t seem to me that we were driving for a long time - probably 20-25 seconds, I didn’t notice. Well, they arrived.
Central Command Center of the Air Defense Forces of the Russian Federation - fortification especially large sizes, the main part of which is located at a depth of 122.5 meters. It was built in 1961 by the Spetsmetrostroy department. The TsKP consists of 5 blocks, 3 of which provide, if necessary, the autonomous existence of the center for 250 days. Under the ground, the blocks are located in the form of a rectangle, the dimensions of which are 800 by 760 meters. Effective area object - about 250 thousand square meters. According to the main military inspectorate, excluding infrastructure costs (the population of the military camp located near the Central Control Center is about 20 thousand people), the annual maintenance of the Air Defense Central Control Center costs 0.8-1.0 trillion rubles. About four hundred people serve the center in peacetime, and 1100 in wartime.
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Below you can see that Spetsmetrostroy» was not constrained by means. Tunnels, with a diameter much larger than in the subway (ceiling height sometimes reaches 4 meters), are arranged in a grid. And the same constant hum.
To the heart of the "object" - the command post, where continuous duty is carried out and where critical systems of the country's air defense department, we walked for at least ten minutes. First along the "main corridor", then several stairs down, a very narrow and low corridor. Another safe door, and it seemed to me that I was in a science fiction movie: countless light bulbs shone in the dark, screens on the wall showed some numbers, everything changed in color, blinked, clicked.
Rokhlin, the guest of honor, was invited to the commander's chair. By left hand- toggle switches for direct communication with the districts and individual air defense units, on the right - telephones. " The president«, « Prime Minister«, « Minister of Defense“... all kinds of special communications. Except urban. Armchairs at the control panel are from an ordinary passenger aircraft. Greased and with torn covers.
Secret Service
While Rokhlin was being shown how the nuclear strike warning system works, I sat down on the floor behind the commander's chair. A face in a khaki overall with a general's shoulder straps looked at me angrily. I took out my camera. The scandal was inevitable, but I asked Rokhlin in time: “ Can I take a photo of you as a keepsake?"Sinitsyn intervened:" It's not allowed here in any case, we'll take a picture in the corridor«.
80% of the personnel of the Central Command Air Defense are officers, and most of them are not lower than a major. Soldiers are not allowed into the main hall of the TsKP at all - officers even wash the floors there.
Back, up, the elevator went at maximum speed. Less than 20 seconds - and we are at the top.
« How long have you been here? - I asked one colonel from the retinue of the general on duty at the TsKP. “You mean everything, for service? We are on duty in two days, I have been here for 12 years - consider for yourself.
When we went outside it was dark. General Sinitsyn continued to praise the secret facility and even answered my question about other similar structures: “ Among the military underground structures we are the biggest. And in the best condition. Although, of course, not the only one of its kind. Well, you know how many non-departmental subways exist!» On this, the frankness of General Sinitsyn ended.
And our inspection too. Everything seems to be working. It seems that control of the nuclear umbrella has not been lost. And there is at least one unit in the Russian Armed Forces that receives wages on time and performs the combat mission assigned to it. Unless, of course, all this flashing tinsel underground is not a dummy.
We got out yesterday to the Sholdanesh forest, Max took us to look at the "rocket mines".
Traces of missiles were not found, but found Reserve command post of the Warsaw Pact countries
(Map geoportal.md) (Directions, google map).
In the event of a nuclear strike, the command post was supposed to provide up to 24 hours of complete isolation.
The construction is cyclopean, it makes the strongest impression with the size and the abyss of labor and materials swelled into the ground.
There are two more exactly the same complexes: in Belarus (wikimapia) And in Azerbaijan .
The command post cost the state 32 million rubles.
At the prices of the 80s: a standard five-story building - 1 million rubles, the Chisinau circus - 2 million rubles, the Opera and Ballet Theater - 4 million rubles.
Apparently, the construction of three ZKPs in the former republics began simultaneously, in 1985, and ended with the collapse of the USSR, approximately in 1991-92, in the final stage of readiness.
In this video, its builder tells about the Belarusian object:
Olishcani village, Moldova:
Two shafts, each 32 meters in diameter, 62 meters deep, 12 underground floors.
They are located at a distance of about 20 meters from each other, connected by posterns - iron rectangular corridors.
The height, that is, the depth, is approximately the same as that of "Chamomile" on Malaya Raspberry, the diameter is twice as large.
39
The corridor leading to the opening from photo #16.
40
Poterna leading to a neighboring bunker.
41
It is very difficult to imagine that there are at least two more five-story buildings under the surface of the water.
43
Inside you comprehend the meaning of the expression "iron coffin".
People were doomed and understood it.
44
The whole structure makes it very clear that this is the last line, there will be nothing beyond it.
An inanimate nightmare from post-apocalyptic novels.
45
Vegetation very quickly hides the remains of buildings and destroys the weakest of them.
47
20 meters separating two bunkers.
It seems that for a dozen years after the departure of the army, the object resembled a construction site on the contrary - a five-year plan in one year, they cut and dismantled, as much smoke stood.
48
Opposite edge of the site.
49
Second bunker.
50
At least two meters of concrete.
1 meter of concrete attenuates radiation by 10 times.
Correction from the comments: 6 cm of concrete attenuate gamma radiation by about 2 times, and a meter, respectively, by 100,000 (one hundred thousand) times.
The case when the incorrect information disseminated on the Internet confused.
51
You can also get inside.
52
On video from Belarus such a healthy metal hole is shown, four meters in diameter.
Perhaps two semicircles to the right and left of the main bunker in the photo are the retractable antenna shafts.
Panorama, when clicked it will open in a new window, 1550×700.
54
The descent is no longer so easy.
56
Vitalik found a nameplate, exactly the same as in the video but for a different product.
57
"SCHG" - hermetic shield?
60
All-metal structure with a diameter of 30 meters and a height of 60 meters.
It's hard to imagine, but you can see it with your own eyes.
61
Perhaps stiffening ribs, otherwise it’s generally incomprehensible how all this economy does not bend under its own weight.
65
The concrete cup holder modules are bolted together.
68
Casting on concrete is not distinguished by elegance - either the requirements for the beauty of the object were low, or they were in a hurry for the last and decisive battle.
69
The civil engineer on the video was saying something about retractable antennas.
77
Panorama, when clicked it will open in a new window, 1570×700.
81
Two steps away is the skeleton of a workshop of unknown purpose.
88
Everywhere among the trees are the remains of concrete structures.
It takes a long time to believe that 20 years ago there were sites with buildings in varying degrees of readiness, but there were no traces of these trees.
90
A residential town is located 300 meters from the mines.
This is really a surprise, despite the fact that in Belarus a hangar-canopy was used to disguise the construction of the same checkpoint.
At the time of the liquidation of the facility, there were three five-story buildings in the residential town, at least one was inhabited by people.
91
Ownerless panel buildings are dismantled by industrial methods.
Two years ago there were two five-story buildings, today there is only one.
92
The boiler pipe apparently cannot be disassembled.
93
The buildings are dismantled and the panels are transported 100 km away, where a similar house is being built.
95
R13, Soldanesti-Floresti.
(Russia, Leningrad region, Vsevolozhsk district, Yukkovskoe rural settlement, Sarzhenka village)
When visiting abandoned buildings, each of us pursues our own goals... Some are looking for an easy way to make money, others want to see a secret or well-guarded object in the past, others plan to take unusual photos... I belong to the latter category.
Vacationing in Leningrad region. When developing routes, we stumbled upon the plundered command post of the Karelian fortified area Sarzhenka. Photos on the network showed a completely safe bunker, we decided to go and see.
How to get there? On the highway [A-121], we got out of St. Petersburg, turned off the road to Agalatovo, and there they already began to look for the former Akkord ZKP.
We drove through SNT Sarzhenka on the street. Lesnaya and went deep into the forest, in which dilapidated buildings of the military unit are scattered. By the way, this road is looped, having driven along Lesnaya, and then having traveled through the forest along asphalt paths, we got out in the same SNT, but on the street. Rural (here, though, when leaving the forest, there is a rather unreliable bridge across the ravine).
The road itself leads to the bunker. The entrance to it (already without a hermetic door) remains inconspicuous even today.
Despite the losses of Sarzhenka, it still amazes with the scale of the underground part, there are not many such bunkers in the public domain!
The history of this building dates back to 1943. The secret command post Sarzhenok belonged to the 6th Air Defense Army. Former military unit 53933, US "Akkord" (communication center). In the common people it is called "churn". It was part of the support where the soldiers lived, a buried bunker and many concrete dugouts, which, according to a conscript who served there, were used for ammunition depots. From the air, the object is not visible, "Accord" is really reliably "hidden", the buildings were built in the forest, the roads are narrow, and are barely visible from a height among the spreading fir trees and dense undergrowth.
The scheme was drawn in accordance with the photo from the site https://supersasha.ru/posts/5388. There was no explication.
Perhaps, if it were not for the proximity of civilization, visiting this object today, we would see everything in more or less complete safety. But, unfortunately, the thirst for enrichment and blatant negligence could turn a military strategic facility into abandon. As of July 2018, the state of the facility is deplorable: the main bunker is full of destruction, the supports failed and the second floor collapsed, absolutely any metal: equipment racks, cables and sealed doors were taken out clean, furniture and documentation were looted. Huge kilometer-long trenches left by hunters for non-ferrous metal, literally ripping up the ground around the structures of the military unit, are amazing.
Why was the command post turned into abandon?
The current state is clear without words ... But one remains main question, why did the Accord turn out to be abandoned? While searching for information about this place, I came across the story of one soldier who served in the ZKP just at the moment when it fell into disrepair. There were two fatal events that decided the fate of Sarzhenka. On January 10, 1997, on the territory of the military unit, there was a fire in the steam room of the bathhouse. From the memoirs it follows that the foreman really wanted to curry favor with his superiors, and hurried to report on the readiness of the bath. The fire was extinguished, but the same night it flared up again in the ill-fated bathhouse. Due to heavy snowfall, fire trucks from Agalatovo could not get to the unit in time, and the bathhouse burned out completely. The high authorities, who loved to relax here, immediately lost interest in the object and stopped coming.
Another decisive event was the failure of the power supply cable in October/November 1997. Colorers did not hesitate to cut the cable of the still operating part. Before the fire in the bathhouse, it was promptly restored, but now the soldiers had to survive on their own without outside help. In late autumn, at a temperature of -20 for 2 days, the heating and hot water systems of the barracks building completely thawed. The electric stoves in the kitchen were out of order, there was nothing to cook food on, we had to order a wood-burning stove. According to the memoirs of the same conscript, the soldiers went unshaven, not washed, half-starved and angry, until they were transferred to another unit.
Finally, a few more nostalgic memories that characterize the everyday life of military personnel on the Akkord: “... I happened to see both the peak of this point (during the time of Major Kolesnikov) and its decline (already under Captain Golobokov). Participated in 2 exercises, when the communication center began to function almost in full. I climbed on the masts of the RRS and enjoyed the autumn views of the forests. Studied and researched all levels of the communication node in its working condition. For days he sat in the HF manhole on duty, snatches of sleep on a cot in a dugout of radio-relay communication next to the equipment that was red-hot from work. Digging for hours in a pile of coal at the beginning of the service, to pick up good pieces for the night stoker. I was friends with the guys from OBAU and envied their schedule. By the way, they were scattered even before us and kicked out all the equipment, and there was something to see, what only “Volcanoes” are worth ... (from the site https://www.nakop.ru/topic/22243-pozyvnoy-akkord/)
Seeing such a destruction at former military facilities, one becomes ashamed of the Fatherland ... and somehow one involuntarily begins to doubt the power of our Armed Forces, which is so actively promoted today ... Well, yes, there was a difficult period in the country (dashing 90s), probably by modern standards this ZKP is outdated, but this is not a reason to turn both the bunker and the territory adjacent to it into a real dump ...
Meanwhile, local summer residents are actively building in Sarzhenka, and it seems they are not at all embarrassed by the disfigured forest and such an unpleasant neighborhood ...
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Abandoned command post of the 6th Air Force Air Defense Army "Sarzhenka" 60.202757 , 30.231500 Abandoned command post of the 6th Air Force Air Defense Army "Sarzhenka"
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For a long time I didn’t publish any industrial zone reports, and, in fact, I didn’t go to any military and industrial abandoned for a long time. However, a lot of material has been accumulated over the years, so I’m posting it little by little. And, if you think about it, quite recently it was - regular searches for objects, feverish gatherings as soon as some information appeared in public sources, the heavy creak of rusted hermetic doors, descents into the mysterious unknown ... But as if whole life has since passed, although in fact - only a few years.
And the approach to photography has changed. Now photos - mostly from travel and spotting - in fact, a reportage on aviation topics. Shooting hundreds of frames. In processing, the most painful thing is to somehow sort, to determine those 60-80% that will be thrown out. The rest - crop-levels-curves-done! Well, maybe a little sharp. All. Conveyor. And then ... Searching for a way to convey the atmosphere, crawling with a tripod along flooded dungeons or rearing concrete slabs, a maximum of a couple of dozen frames for the entire exit, textures, reflections, shutter speed selection, home-made cable, dancing of flashlight beams along dark walls ... In processing - again search for the atmosphere, playing with colors, transitions, the mirror shine of concrete, in a drunken dream, the positions of the engines in Photoshop filters that you don’t dream of ... Crooked, clumsily, at random, but so exciting!
There is something subtly gone in these pictures... It would seem that there are still a lot of objects, go ahead, shoot - but there is no mood, no naive romance of novelty and excitement of a pioneer, and most importantly - there is no feeling of frenzied specific energy emanating from this kind places, and which, in the first place, she attracted me to abandoned objects. Gone, lost, or maybe - forgot how to perceive. You see, everything has its time.
OK. Preface completed. So, an unfinished and abandoned military bunker. There are four similar facilities in the Moscow region, located symmetrically at approximately the same distance from the city. Presumably, these were supposed to be protected command posts of the air defense system of the Moscow District. They are a two-level box made of monolithic concrete, placed in a pit, which, upon completion of construction, must be filled up, and the whole structure would look like a mound, hiding 3/4 below ground level. All are abandoned in a state of varying degrees of unfinished construction.
Of the four objects I visited three, this one was the first. He was in the greatest degree of readiness and in the least degree of litter. That is, there was almost no garbage and graffiti, which is already a rarity for such places, and inside the object even part of the hermetic doors (light, inter-compartment) had already been installed. Heavy "anti-nuclear" doors, apparently, were supposed to be installed only at the entrance locks. The lower level was flooded, it was possible to move along it only in wading boots.
I started my survey at the top level. Below is a photo without words.
A bed of moss has grown out of the rebar in the forest.
Hermetic door of light type.
Corridors.
Rays.
The lower level is flooded, a shaky and rusty technological staircase leads to it. I change my shoes, leave my shoes and a bag of food upstairs, and climb down lightly. After thinking, I leave a backpack below on a dry dock, and set off to explore the bunker with only a camera and two flashlights. 
It seemed to me that the transition from color to black and white would be symbolic.
Sight.
The rays of the sun penetrating into the dungeon give an unusual play of color.
Due to the lack of air movement, the surface of the water is absolutely calm, and looks like a smooth mirror.
In addition to the bunker itself, there are quite ordinary above-ground structures on the territory of the facility. For example, this is the building of headquarters or barracks, from the roof of which you can see the bunker box and the yellowing forest around. 
The interior of the building is unremarkable, but also contains a certain gloomy aesthetic.
Zasim, in fact, everything. The walk along the ZKP PVO is over. I don’t know what is happening with this object now, but it’s easy to assume: it was sawn down by blacksmiths, polluted by local residents, painted by “progressive” youth, or maybe it was recultivated and built up with cottages - the fate of all available abandoned objects in the Moscow region is similar. And in the recent 2008, he was like this.
