A. Smooth      01/09/2022

Practical fundamentals of culinary arts. Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva: Practical foundations of culinary art. Stalik Khankishiyev, Kazan Mangal

  • The minimum amount of salt;
    • Chinese broth
    • Chicken broth review!
    • Meat broth review!
    • Vegetable broth review!
    • fish broth

    MARINADES AND SAUCES

    • Chocolate orange fondue review!
    • white sauce
    • Quick mayonnaise review!
    • Mustard dressing "vinaigrette"
    • Chicken legs in a citrus marinade review!
    • Red wine marinade review!
    • Spicy tropical marinade
    • Citrus garlic marinade

    BASIC RECIPES

    • Pancakes for every day review!
    • How to use canned tomatoes tip!
    • Classic mashed potatoes. cooking mashed potatoes: 6 delicious recipes! review!

    PIZZA

    • Italian pizza dough review!
    • Tomato sauce review!

    PASTA AND RICE

    • Basic noodle dough review!
    • Peelaf review!
    • Risotto (basic method and additives) review!
    • Garlic Butter Tagliatelle Review!

    FOR SWEET

    • Biscuit dough review!
    • Vanilla shortbread cookies (dough) review!
    • hot chocolate sauce
    • Golden Gingerbread Review!
    • Lebkuchen review!
    • Ageless (Khrushchev's) dough review!
    • The main dough for the bread machine review!
    • Light Gingerbread review!
    • Dark Gingerbread Review!
    • Chocolate Gingerbread Review!
    • berry sauce

    BEVERAGES

    • Sugar Syrup Review!

    The basics of cooking will help you feel more confident in the kitchen, even for “dummies” who are not able to fry an egg. And chefs would do well to remember long-forgotten truths!

    Culinary art is a general name for all activities limited to the kitchen. The choice of products, appliances, decoration - these are the elements that determine the culinary arts. The latter takes place in cuisines around the world, but plays the most significant role in restaurants. This practice is becoming more and more accessible to people who want to develop their culinary skills and impress guests by surprising them with an unusual dish.

    So, with regard to the choice of products, you should use:

  • Seasonal products - high quality and exclusively organic origin;
  • Fresh herbs and spices that have a brighter flavor and are rich in vitamins;
  • Unsaturated vegetable oils (coconut, sesame, olive, sunflower) and ghee.
  • The minimum amount of salt;
  • The minimum amount of sugar, trying to resort to alternatives (fruit juices, honey) to sweeten dishes.
  • These basics should be remembered by every housewife who cares not only about the taste, but also about the benefits of a particular dish.

    A common mistake novice cooks make is overcomplicated recipes. Therefore, it is better to first become skilled in the art of making an omelet or charlotte, and then take on lasagna and croquembush. Moreover, one should not rely solely on cookbooks, especially of foreign origin, since each locality has its own characteristics (water, temperature, humidity, etc.), which cannot but affect the final result.

    Good luck with your culinary arts!

    Publishing house A

    ST Moscow


    Artistic design and layout by Andrey Bondarenko

    The publishing house would like to thank Vera teavera Shcherbina and Denis Fursova for their help in preparing the book.


    © Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva, heirs, 2013

    © A. Bondarenko, design, layout, 2013

    © AST Publishing House LLC, 2013

    CORPUS ® Publishing

    Editorial

    This book exactly reproduces the lifetime edition of the book by Pelageya Pavlovna Alexandrova-Ignatieva in 1909.

    The changes concern only the spelling of the text, which is reduced to modern look, as well as some measures and weights used by the author: pounds and spools are converted to grams, etc.

    For ease of use, it should be borne in mind that 1 glass is approximately equal to 0.2 l, 1 plate - 1.5 glasses, i.e. 0.3 l, and 1 bottle - 3 glasses, i.e. 0.6 l.

    From the author

    In issuing this publication, The Practical Foundations of Culinary Arts, I consider it necessary to warn readers that I do not mean to offer them a reference cookbook, of which we have many, but I hope, with the help of this guide, to make it easier for housewives to self-educate in the culinary arts. , especially those of the housewives who, for whatever reason, cannot take a systematic course in culinary schools Oh. For students of culinary schools, both for intelligent housewives and simple semi-literate cooks, this book is convenient because it contains the entire course that takes place at school, and, therefore, students can not waste time on keeping notes, but use it for practical exercises. That is the main purpose of this edition. Do I need to talk about what Lately we, in Russia, have such a mass of cookbooks that you don’t know which one to give preference to. All of them contain hundreds of recipes for various soups, roasts and other dishes. Some contain recipes for a simple homemade table, while others are filled with recipes from French cuisine. Some of them - the best ones - can be useful as reference books for experienced housewives and skilled cooks, and publications such as Radetzky's, Gufe, Karem's Almanac of Gastronomers (in translation) can serve as reference book and for professional chefs. But none of these books can serve as a guide for self-study of inexperienced, young housewives and novice cooks, since not a single book gives general, basic rules, as is customary in others. technical textbooks, and does not force the hostess or cook to be critically conscious of the matter and step by step to follow their actions in the kitchen. This is what serves as the main obstacle to the fact that the dish fails, the provisions deteriorate and the money is spent unproductively.

    Usually, in all cookbooks, only the proportion (weight) of the products that make up each dish is indicated, and then follows summary the preparation itself or, as it is commonly called, the “recipe”.

    Meanwhile, the most important thing is not indicated, namely, why, when preparing a well-known dish, it is necessary to use one and not the other method, and what can happen if the action is performed incorrectly, and also what should be done in cases where the dish is spoiled, i. i.e. does not have the proper taste or appearance, i.e. how can it be corrected. Take, for example, Provencal sauce, which so often fails. In all cookbooks the recipe for this sauce is almost the same, and everywhere it says that you need to mix the sauce in one direction and pour in the oil a little, but they do not say why you can’t stir in different directions and why you can’t pour the oil all at once. The hostess or cook, who has never seen the preparation of this sauce in practice, begins to make it according to the indicated recipe, mechanically turns the spatula in one direction, and sometimes turns in the other, completely without attaching any importance to this, pours the oil in quickly, then slowly, and into as a result, the sauce bounces - it becomes liquid, and she does not know how to fix it; the provisions are spoiled and thrown out.

    Another thing is if the hostess or cook knows why she should do it this way and not otherwise; she feels more confident in her work, and if in case she makes a mistake, she will be able to correct it without throwing away the material. In general, inept handling of food and spoiling it leads not only to damage to financial calculations (lunch is more expensive than it should be), but also affects the health of people who consume improperly cooked meals.

    In order to avoid all such errors and misunderstandings in the preparation of dishes, in this textbook almost every dish has “explanations and notes”. Therefore, we advise housewives and cooks to pay attention not only to the very method of preparing a given dish, but also to all these explanations and notes that relate to it. Only by doing so can they benefit from this book and learn how to cook properly and tasty. For persons who do not want to pay attention to the matter, or who think to treat this book as a reference index, it is better not to buy it at all, since it cannot be useful to them.

    In addition to the explanations and notes mentioned, which apply to each individual dish, the most important and essential part of the book consists of general articles or general basic rules for the preparation of a certain category of dishes, such as: broths, mashed soups, meat, poultry, fish, dough, sauces and other These general articles not only facilitate self-study, but also significantly reduce the passage of the culinary arts course in schools. So, for example, if the hostess or cook learns well only the basic methods of cooking meat and will know characteristics each method, i.e., it will not mix stewing or stewing, then it does not need to memorize hundreds of different roasts, since the methods of preparing them will remain the same, and the names only depend on those sauces and side dishes with which the roast is served - filet de boeuf a la jardinière, a la financière, a la godard, and so on and so forth.

    The same can be said about puree soups, sauces, dough, fish, poultry, and so on.

    In view of all this, I also suggest that the housewives pay due attention to general articles and not take, for example, the preparation of cold fish when they do not know the general rules for cleaning and cooking it. First of all, you should definitely read these rules, and then cook the fish according to the specified recipe. And that's how it should be with every meal.

    Thanks to this system, housewives, students at school, who then apply their knowledge at home, for their own household, take a course of three months; cooks for a cook, depending on their knowledge with which they act - at least three months, even those who know how to cook well; farm managers public institutions and private homes - at least 6 months, and teachers for newly opened culinary schools in other cities - at least a year. Meanwhile, as everyone knows, specialist chefs, ranging from mediocre and decent to celebrities in their field, study for several years; in the same way as any, although a little knowledgeable cook (who did not go to school) reaches the necessary knowledge no earlier than at 4-5 years old. This is explained by the fact that cooks and cooks acquire their knowledge only empirically, through practice and experience, without any systematic explanations from their cook teachers.

    A boy apprenticed to the kitchen to a cook, the latter does not teach in the system general rules cooking meat, fish, etc. and does not explain why it is necessary to make a well-known dish this way and not otherwise, but only shows the very technique of preparation, leaving the student to achieve the correct execution of known techniques. If the student spoils the dish, then they do not explain to him why he did not succeed, but on the contrary, strict measures are applied to obtain the desired result.

    As a result of such inept training, secretiveness is very developed in cooks, that is, if one of them knows how to cook a well-known dish especially tasty and better than others, then he will never share his secret with a friend. And this is very understandable, since the acquisition of this knowledge is achieved with great difficulty, and therefore everyone keeps it to himself.

    Among many representatives of the culinary arts (even foreigners) with whom I had to work (teach) at school, I noticed this feature, and only one of them, my teacher F. A. Zeest, does not adhere to such beliefs and tries to make all his knowledge the property of society.

    To show how different the serving of dishes in ordinary and palace kitchens, in this book, in the cold appetizers section, there are drawings from the dishes of the best chefs, artists in their field: Zeest, Astafiev, Kozlov, etc., which they made for the annual exhibitions of the society of cooks . You only need to look at these figures to understand exactly what the difference is. In addition to the fact that provisions for these dishes cost hundreds of rubles, they require diligent work for several days, and not one, but several people. In order to create such a dish as a boar's head or a galantine of swans, you need to have the taste of an artist, the knowledge of a sculptor, and a talented imagination. Even many years of experience is not enough for this, but you need to be an artist in your field. Of course, no housewife or cook can do something like this, and they don't need it. For cooks, these exhibitions are instructive. They cause competition in their work, and therefore, lead the culinary art to further development.

    In addition to all that has been said, I will add that all these general basic rules are not my work or discovery, but have always been the property of specialists in this field, but my work consists only in the fact that all these phenomena are brought into a system, generalized and tested in practice in school for almost sixteen years in the presence of students, so that more than 6000 people can confirm that all the dishes placed in this book, subject to certain rules, should come out quite successful both in taste and in appearance.

    In any case, the first initiative in this matter belongs to F. A. Zeest and L. K. Astafiev, who were my teachers and the first teachers of culinary art to educated housewives, and not to cooks. Without their assistance, neither I nor my students would have had those useful, precious information that is so necessary in life for maintaining health, for saving food material and money.


    Teacher of the basics of culinary arts in St. Petersburg

    P. Aleksandrova-Ignatieva, 1909

    General kitchen rules

    broths
    Basic rules for making broth and its varieties

    Broth is generally called a clear, transparent broth obtained from the meat and bones of slaughtered domestic animals, fish, poultry and game, as well as broth from various root crops and vegetables. Meat broth serves as the basis for all meat, both dressing and clear soups; just as fish broth is the basis of all fish, and vegetable and root vegetable broth is the basis of lean and vegetarian soups. It is impossible to get a single soup, both fast and lean, without having a broth. The broth comes in three varieties, namely yellow, white and red. A clear broth served as an independent dish, without the addition of vegetables and flour side dishes, cannot be considered a nutritious food, since during cooking, only taste and extractive, and not nutrients, pass into it from meat. As a result, pure broth (without garnishes) should be used not as a nutritious, but as an exclusively flavoring food that develops an appetite for further dishes.


    Yellow the broth serves as the basis for all transparent soups with garnishes, both Russian and French, such as: soup with dumplings, noodles, soup with meatballs, soup royale, julienne, etc., and so on. - and, in addition, served as an independent soup with various pies.


    White the broth serves as the basis for all filling Russian soups (shchi, borscht, pickle, stew, etc.), as well as all soups-puree.


    Red the broth serves as the basis for sticky French soups (oshpo, a la tortue, tortue, etc.) and fume (strong broth for dark sauces). In addition, broths are divided into strong and sticky. The first of them are boiled from those parts of the carcass that have a lot of muscle, containing extractive substances, and are used for clear soups, while the second ones are boiled from parts of the carcass that have a large number of tendons and bones, and are used for dressing soups.


    For cooking meat broth The following products are required per person:

    meat 200 g with bones

    Veal shank? or everything? amount of meat

    Water 1 or 2 deep plates (plate 1? cup)

    Koreniev: turnips, carrots, celery, leeks, parsley, together 50 g

    Luca? part of a common bulb

    salt approximately 8 g

    Bouquet, i.e. stalks and green parts of celery, leek, parsley tied together


    ? yellow meat broth prepared as follows:


    COOKING METHOD The meat intended for cooking the broth must be washed cold water, but do not keep it in it, otherwise it loses its taste; then, separating it from the bones and tendons, cut it into pieces of approximately 200 g each, so that it boils better and faster and gives a stronger fat; the bones should be cut in the longitudinal direction in order to better boil them, which, of course, gives the broth a better taste and strength.

    Having prepared the meat in this way, take some thick saucepan (copper, cast iron or stone, refractory), rinse it with cold water and, wiping it dry so that the broth does not get an extraneous aftertaste, put the bones on the bottom of the dish first, and above them the meat and pour all with cold water in such an amount that the water completely covers the meat; otherwise the parts that are out of the water will not be boiled enough. After that, put the pan on a strong fire and cover it with a lid that is not quite tight in order to allow steam to escape freely. When the broth begins to boil and foam appears on its surface, then you need to carefully remove it with a spoon until the broth is completely clear; then already lower the fried roots, onions and salt into it, and the broth should not be stirred at this time, as this will shake up the remnants of the foam that have settled to the bottom. Roots and onions are pre-peeled, cut into large circles and fried in tinted wood or oil (see explanations and notes). Simultaneously with the roots, a bouquet is also placed in the broth, that is, the green parts of celery, leek and parsley, tied in one bunch. Having lowered the roots and salt into the broth, they immediately put the pan on a slow fire, on the edge of the stove, where they cook the rest of the time, that is, until the broth gets a good, strong meat taste, and the meat itself is boiled well enough, what would require at least 2? -3 hours of time if the broth is prepared for a small number of people (3-5 persons), and 5-6 hours if the broth is prepared for a large number of people.

    After the specified time has elapsed, that is, when the broth is ready, all fat must be carefully removed from its surface and, without shaking with a spoon and without raising the pan, strain carefully through a wet napkin stretched over an overturned stool, then boil one more time and then you can already serve it on the table.


    EXPLANATIONS AND NOTES

    ? Meat varieties. In those cases when the broth is intended for transparent, both Russian and French, soups with garnishes, as well as for mashed soups, or is served as an independent soup with pies, it is cooked from meat of the 2nd grade “podbederka”, since the meat goes only for boiling, and in the soup for portions is not served. The podderok in its composition has all the substances necessary for the broth, as well as the marrow bones. If the broth is cooked for Russian clear or dressing soups, which are served with portions of boiled soup meat, such as noodles, stew, pickle, etc., then meat of the 1st grade thigh is taken, which also contains marrow bone and a lot of flavoring and extractive substances necessary for the broth, and, in addition, the thigh gives good portions of boiled soup meat. This variety is also used in cases where it is necessary to obtain a particularly strong beef broth, for example, for convalescent patients, etc. If the broth is intended for filling, sour and fatty Russian soups, such as cabbage soup, borscht, etc. - then the meat of the 2nd grade is taken, the brisket, which, having spongy bones soaked in red marrow, gives the broth a special pleasant sweetish taste, and the meat is suitable for serving in portions. Although veal shank is one of the non-essential ingredients for making broth, is it useful to put it in, in size? the whole amount of meat, firstly, to give the broth a more delicate taste, and secondly, for stickiness. If the proportion of veal shank is increased, then the broth will turn out cloudy and too sticky. From hot-steam meat from a freshly killed animal, the broth always turns out to be very tasty, but it is always cloudy. Despite the careful removal of the foam, it must always be pulled back with proteins or meat guy. (see below - varieties of broth - consommé). IN winter time, in the form of savings, many housewives take frozen meat for broth, which is much cheaper than fresh meat. In these cases, you should always pour water on the meat until it has thawed and released juice; it should thaw already on the stove, in a saucepan, so that the juice, which contains valuable flavor and nutrients, does not disappear. It must be borne in mind that the broth brewed from frozen meat has a worse taste than the broth brewed from the same amount of fresh meat. If, due to some necessity, you have to take frozen meat for soup, then it is better to always prepare some kind of dressing soup on this day: cabbage soup, borsch, stew, than clear broth. The latter is good only when it has a strong meat flavor.

    Size and Quantity the products from which the broth is brewed depends on the purpose that is given to it. In any case, it must be borne in mind that cooking too small a proportion of broth, for example, for one person, is extremely inconvenient, since the proportions of the products would come out too small; therefore it is better in such cases to boil the broth for two or three days and store it in the manner indicated below.

    Dishes for cooking the broth, there must be thick copper or cast iron, but certainly enameled inside, otherwise the foam and fat deposited on the edges of the cast iron or earthenware, non-enamelled dishes will be absorbed into the walls and give the broth the smell of fat; in addition, non-enamelled dishes, not having an unconditionally smooth surface, cannot be completely clean. It is also good to use refractory stone or porcelain dishes for cooking broth.

    Cold water. In order for the broth to get a good strong taste, the meat should be poured with cold (not hot) water, so that it would gradually heat up with this water, giving it its flavoring and extractive substances. If meat is poured hot water, then a protein crust forms on its surface, which prevents the release of juices, which is why the broth gets a weak taste. You should also not add cold or hot water to the broth during cooking, as this makes it weaker in taste. It is necessary immediately, at the beginning of cooking, to add water to boil. If a small proportion of the broth is cooked, then 1 plate per person is added for boiling, and for a large amount, or? dishes. This is explained by the fact that in in large numbers the liquid evaporates less than in a small amount.

    brain bones are placed at the bottom of the dishes so that the water covers the meat from all sides.

    Time, necessary for cooking the broth depends on the volume of the boiled piece of meat, as well as on the temperature of the water poured into the pan (ice water or room water). It is obvious, therefore, that a whole large piece needs to be cooked longer to obtain fat than the same piece, but cut into small pieces (200 g each).

    Hearth or stove used for cooking broth require special attention. At the beginning of cooking, before removing the foam, the pan is placed in the middle of the stove, on a good fire, and after removing the foam, the pan is moved to the edge of the stove, on a slow fire, so that the broth boils with one edge; otherwise it will be cloudy, it will boil a lot and the meat will not boil well enough. With slow cooking, meat turns into broth large quantity flavoring substances than with a strong boil.



    The value of this book - a detailed textbook, a collection of almost 500 recipes and a set of unique recommendations on the culinary arts - is difficult to overestimate. It is especially valuable that it includes a popular meat science course written by the famous veterinarian Mikhail Ignatiev, husband of Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva. His course is a real "encyclopedia of meat", from which the reader will learn literally everything about him. For the first time book Practical Fundamentals of Culinary Arts"came out in 1932. But it happens that the old, outlived time does not become obsolete at all, but turns out to be the most modern of all. This is exactly what happened with the book by Alexandrova-Ignatieva, which even today can become necessary and loved in the kitchen of every person passionate about gastronomy .

    Read completely

    Reissue of the legendary book on culinary arts - a detailed textbook, a collection of almost 500 recipes and a set of unique recommendations.
    With the application of a short popular course of meat science by Mikhail Ignatiev.
    The value of this book - a detailed textbook, a collection of almost 500 recipes and a set of unique recommendations on the culinary arts - is difficult to overestimate. It is especially valuable that it includes a popular meat science course written by the famous veterinarian Mikhail Ignatiev, husband of Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva. His course is a real "encyclopedia of meat", from which the reader will learn literally everything about him. The book "Practical Foundations of the Culinary Arts" was first published in 1932. But it so happens that the ancient, outlived time, does not become obsolete at all, but turns out to be the most modern of all. This is exactly what happened with the book by Alexandrova-Ignatieva, which even today is able to become necessary and loved in the kitchen of every person passionate about gastronomy.

    About the author:
    Pelageya Pavlovna Alexandrova-Ignatieva (1872-1953, Leningrad) - famous researcher and teacher of culinary arts. After graduating from the cooking school, she worked for several years under the guidance of such culinary specialists as F. A. Zeest (member of the Paris Culinary Academy) and L. K. Astafiev (owner of a pate workshop).
    Pelageya Pavlovna was the leader of practical classes at the cooking courses organized by her husband, the famous veterinarian Mikhail Ignatiev. In 1894-1896 she was published in the journal Our Food.

    Quote:
    In fact, the books of Pelageya Pavlovna meant for our gastronomic culture no less, if not more than the work of E. Molokhovets. They continued one central ideas our culinary thought: gastronomy for Everyday life housewives, and not for palace receptions ...
    - Olga and Pavel Syutkin

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    William Pokhlebkin, "Rules and subtleties of the kitchen"

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    Alexandrova-Ignatieva P. P., "Practical foundations of culinary art"

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    Thomas Keller, Bouchon

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    A very masculine book that does not require haste. Set aside half a day. Flip through the book, choose a recipe, take a walk to the market or grocery store and start cooking. Careful preparation of ingredients, processing, cutting technique. The stalik will tell you what to pay attention to, where you need to rush in cooking, and where to drink 50 g, slowly frying the greaves. This book can be called the soul of Khankishiev. Here are the best recipes that can be cooked on fire - in a cauldron or on a grill, ideas for summer and winter, for all occasions.

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    This will happen: and you will buy all the products highest quality, and you will approach the matter with all seriousness, and to master something like that, fundamental (French kasule, for example) does not work. You serve the fruit of several hours of effort to the table with the thought that you will never again threaten such a complex recipe in your life.

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    Team "With taste" prepared a set of main culinary rules. Just memorize or refresh them in your memory, and your rice will always turn out crumbly, biscuit - lush, pasta - al dente, and meat - juicy! To go to the material of interest, just click on the words highlighted in a different color.

    culinary rules

    Rice
    In the case of cooking rice, the question "how to cook?" directly depends on the question “what kind?”, which, in turn, follows from the question “for what dish?”. After all, everyone has their own rules for heat treatment. So, for pilaf we will never take wild rice, but steamed for sushi. No no.

    To prepare a delicious and crumbly side dish for meat, fish or vegetable dishes, use ours, which is suitable even for the cheapest varieties!

    Paste
    9 out of 10 Italians, having tried Nashensky, will say that it is just a mass of dough. The one remaining will prefer to remain silent.

    When biting correctly, the tooth first easily overcomes the first soft layer, and then encounters light resistance. Having bitten through the dense center, we say: “Molto bene!”, After all, we have achieved the notorious “al dente”.

    And if 50% of success in cooking pasta is wheat (namely, its durum varieties) and the time that pasta will spend in boiling water, then the second 50% is. It is he who sets the flavor direction of the dish and determines the accompanying ingredients.

    Eggs
    Everyone can fry fried eggs. What about or? These recipes need to be mastered at least for show.

    But even with the usual, it's not so simple. Bookmark product, time, method of cooling. Become a professional egg cooker with "With taste"!

    Meat
    Well fried, but at the same time retaining juiciness - a sign of culinary excellence. To prepare this dish, you will need top-grade meat, skill and ... a heavy cast-iron frying pan. In any case, this is recommended by many professionals, because the thick walls and bottom retain and evenly distribute heat better.

    How, without overdrying it? We also did not forget to tell about this. Read - you will learn a lot of interesting things!

    Bakery
    Finally got to dessert! - the basis of almost half of the recipes for cakes. Its preparation is similar to a shamanic ritual, but once you put everything on the shelves for yourself, you will be surprised at the ease with which this sweet cloud turned out.

    While the cake is baking, think about. Chocolate, custard, butter, or maybe liquor - which one will you choose?

    What culinary tricks have you noted for yourself? Or maybe we missed something? Write in the comments!