Jurisprudence      05.02.2020

Lebedev Sergey. Memel city in Prussia The modern name of the city is Memel

Klaipeda Dictionary of Russian synonyms. memel n., number of synonyms: 1 klaipeda (3) ASIS synonym dictionary. V.N. Trishin. 2013 ... Synonym dictionary

MEMEL - official name Klaipeda (now in Lithuania) until 1923 ... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

memel- 1) r. see Neman 2) city see Klaipeda, Memelsburg place names World: Toponymic Dictionary. M: AST. Pospelov E.M. 2001 ... Geographic Encyclopedia

memel- MEMEL, district. mountains prus. provinces of Koenigsberg in the south. coast of the Baltic. sea, in Vost. Prussia, at the exit from the hall. Kurishgaf; commercial port and seaside. fortified point to the north gr tsѣ Germany, in 10 ver. from Russian people. Connected d. with Tilzitom ... ... Military Encyclopedia

memel- the official name of the city of Klaipeda (now in Lithuania) until 1923. * * * MEMEL MEMEL (Memel), the official name of the city of Klaipeda (see KLAIPEDA) (in Lithuania) until 1923. Memel, the Teutonic knights (see TEUTON ORDER) called the territory in the eastern ... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

memel- (Memel) the former name of the city of Klaipeda in the Lithuanian SSR ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

memel- or Nemanek r. Kovno and Courland provinces, one of constituent parts R. Ah (see). It originates in the Novoaleksandrovsky district, flows to the northwest, forming the border between the Kovno and Courland provinces on a significant part of its course: it joins at the mountains. ... ... Encyclopedic Dictionary F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Efron

memel- geogr. (German name) Neman ... Universal optional practical Dictionary I. Mostitsky

memel- 1) r. see Neman 2) city see Klaipeda, Memelsburg ... Toponymic Dictionary

memel- (Memel)Memel, 1) ex. name district of Lithuania (Memel region), on the coast of the Baltic Sea, north of the Neman River. Was a part East Prussia until 1919, when it came under the control of the French administration, financed by the League of Nations. IN… … Countries of the world. Dictionary

Books

  • Treaty of Versailles, Yu.V. Klyuchnikov. The Treaty of Versailles was intended to consolidate the redistribution of the capitalist world in favor of the victorious powers. According to it, Germany returned Alsace-Lorraine to France (within the borders of 1870); ...

The Germans return to Memel in 1939.

The history of the “free city” (the term “free” is used not in a legal sense, but in an ideological one. Formally, Memel was under the control of the Entente Powers) Memel, which is now marked on maps under the well-known Lithuanian name Klaipeda, is interesting to read from the point of view of parallels, analogies and, in general, the very idea of ​​a “free city” on the border of the “enlightened West” ™ and all the others. The topic is relevant in St. Petersburg, as we have supporters of the idea of ​​a "free city". The following text gives an opportunity to look at the prospects of such a situation on the experience of Klaipeda. In parentheses, let's not forget that Klaipeda, unlike St. Petersburg, is an ice-free port.
Let's hit the road!
Without delving too deeply into the darkness of centuries, casually mentioning the crusaders, Swedes and Samogitians related to the city, we see Memel, which by the end of the First World War of 1914-1918. was listed as the northernmost port city of Prussia. The collapse of Kaiser Germany led to the fact that the victorious powers, mindful of what Prussia meant to the Germans, decided to tear the city away from Heimatland, rightly thinking about the weakening of German influence in the Baltic Sea, if not forever, then for a long time.
A young, stubborn Poland appeared, which France saw as a counterbalance to Germany, and which also had expansionist plans in the Baltic Sea. Wow, what plans! "Grateful" to those around them for centuries of vegetation, the Poles wanted to squeeze the entire Baltic Fleet and rule the seas ourselves. Not at all, of course, but to the Danish straits for sure. In these plans, there was clearly no place for the German Memel on the eastern borders. From the other side of the Memel region, the newly formed Lithuania (then without Vilnius yet) popped up like a pimple, which desperately needed a port in the Baltic to have a guarantee of its long and happy independence through free export / import by sea.

WHERE DREAMS LEAD

What to do if interest in history in the world is not considered applied. Why is he smart person V ordinary life, except sometimes to show off in the company, remembering little known fact? It does not matter that in fact the case will turn out to be a historical anecdote, but it will favorably highlight the narrator in the eyes of the interlocutors. Especially if the eyes are female. Toli is a matter of physics. You sit on an airplane and do some simple calculations to predict the time of arrival. Or, well, geometry. You can draw a plan of the room and build a closet. And put in the closet all the history textbooks, which are difficult to find application in the filled life of a city dweller.

Meanwhile, acquaintance with critical moments in the history of one's country and its immediate neighbors can be of great service in understanding what has happened, is happening and will happen around us if the stars align in one order or another. And at the right moment, he can suggest, for example, that it is time to shift the necessary things from the closet to suitcases, grab the children and quickly get out of the impending disaster on the plane, while they are still flying.
Here the Ukrainians lived, did not grieve, and suddenly, bam, war. "All of a sudden," sort of. But in fact - both "from this" and "from this".

But today is not about them, but about the fate of the "free city" as a phenomenon.
Once at the beginning of the journey to the East, the Fuhrer planned something similar for St. Petersburg. But it didn't work out, fortunately. Although some here believe that unfortunately. And the movement of the Reich towards St. Petersburg began precisely there - in Memel 1938-39.
But first things first. So, Memel between the two world wars: a city that was needed by everyone, and at the same time was a draw.

WHOSE IS HE? HE'S NOTHING!


Territorial losses of Germany after WWI. Memelland is the most northeastern part.

The volleys of the world war have died down. Europe buried its dead and squinted its eyes to see the future through the smoke of fires. The victorious powers set about constructing the world order, picking up the pieces of the failed empires and shaping them into a new kaleidoscope of the European home. Among these fragments, Memel turned out to be a city that had no one to give. It was decided to leave it under the mandate of the League of Nations. In 1920, it was transferred under the collective control of the Entente countries. A small French garrison was present. Self-government was run by local Germans, who were the majority among the economically active population of Memel itself and the surrounding area, called Memelland. Whether the Germans considered all their Lithuanian neighbors "cattle" history is silent. Not without it, I think.

French administration in Memel, 1920

By the will of fate, Memel was supposed to become a "free city", like Danzig, which could not be left German, but the Polish future was also contraindicated for him. Well, do not give it to the Swedes? Why? Soviet Russia was against the idea of ​​a "free city" and demanded that her interests also be taken into account in the fate of the ice-free port. Slave country, what to take from it. Freedom cannot be carried to the spirit. She has interests, you know. Let her interests in the ice of the Gulf of Finland freeze annually from November to May.
Poland hoped that the city itself would fall into her hands with the assistance of "their own" French, with whom they had almost reached an agreement. France, planning to transfer the Memel region to Poland, was guided, of course, not by love for Mickiewicz or craving for Polish beauties, but hoped that in the future the port would not get to Germany that had suddenly risen from its knees. How to look into the water.

NEW CHALLENGER

And then Lithuania appears on the scene. A small but proud country that wants the territories that belong to it "by right". The Constituent Seimas of Lithuania modestly spoke in favor of joining Klaipeda to Lithuania on the basis of autonomy.
Memel Germans, who constituted an active majority in the region, quickly figured out which way the wind was blowing, and during the plebiscite of 1921, which was organized by the "Working Group of the Society for the Free State of Memel" ("Arbeitsgemeinschaft für den Freistaat Memel"), 54,429 people (75, 75% of citizens who had the right to vote) voted for a free state and against a union with Lithuania. We will never be brothers!©
To which the Lithuanians presented their surveys, which showed that the Lithuanian language should be given the official status of the 2nd language, despite the fact that during the survey of 1922 it was revealed that 93% of people declared themselves as ethnic Germans in the city of Memel and 63% declared themselves as memellenders on the territory of Memelland.

On December 18, 1922, the Supreme Committee for the Salvation of Lithuania Minor (as the Lithuanians called the Memel Region), called in Germany "Direktorium der Litauer", appeared in Memel. The official purpose of this committee was to organize the inhabitants of the Memel region into one whole society, which was to become part of Lithuania. They supported the linguistic, national and cultural activity of Lithuanians in Lithuania Minor. They also wanted to enlist the support of their brethren living in Lithuania and other countries of the world.
Once Yin erupted, then Yang should appear somewhere nearby. The organization "German-Lithuanian Fatherland Union" ("Deutsch-Litauischer Heimatbund"), together with the "Working Group of the Society for the Free State of Memel" ("Arbeitsgemeinschaft für den Freistaat Memel"), put forward the idea of ​​the "Free State of Memelland", which was later to join of course or to Germany.

TO ARMS, Pilieciai!

Lithuanian "rebels" (disguised as civilian soldiers) during the Klaipeda uprising of 1923

The situation developed in such a way that the Germans, between the Poles and Lithuanians, far-sightedly chose the latter. Germany approved the strengthening of the Lithuanian resistance forces directed against Poland. The "Memel Shooters' Union" ("Memeler Schützenbund") purchased 1,500 rifles, 5 light machine guns and ammunition from Germany, paying with money from secret funds, the main contributors of which were Lithuanian emigrants, mostly living in the United States. Weapons for the Lithuanians were purchased, no less, from the commander-in-chief of the Reichswehr, Hans von Seeckt. On behalf of the army, he assured Lithuania that the Germans would not interfere in the Lithuanian intervention.
The gun hung at the beginning of the play did not hang until the last act of the drama and went off almost immediately. Time is money!

The coup began on January 9, 1923. The Supreme Committee for the Salvation of Lithuania Minor published a manifesto to the French soldiers who were in the region, in which they asked the soldiers not to interfere. The rebels had to: be polite (oh!), do not rob, do not drink alcohol, do not participate in political conversations, do not carry Lithuanian documents, do not carry tobacco and matchboxes with Lithuanian identification inscriptions.
On the same day, volunteers from Lithuania crossed the border of the region (they were in civilian clothes, which they changed into on the train, but for identification they put on armbands with the letters "MLS"). Many Lithuanian residents of the region supported the rebels by supplying them with food.

Funeral of the French soldiers killed during the uprising of 1923 in Memel

Memel itself could not be taken peacefully, as the port was defended by French soldiers. The "polite" insurgents launched their attack on 15 January at 01:00. Several French officers and soldiers, a policeman and German volunteers were taken prisoner. By 05:00 Memel was occupied and the French soldiers retreated and surrendered a little later. Of course, no one wanted to die for no reason. The total casualties were small: 20 rebels and 2 French soldiers were killed.
After these events, the territory of the Memel Territory was taken completely under control. Supreme Committee salvation of Lithuania Minor.

The monument to Kaiser Wilhelm, as it should be in the days of popular uprisings, was knocked off the pedestal and dragged to the backyards

January 16, a small Polish warship "Komendant Pilsudski" (former Finnish "Karjala", and even earlier former Russian "Lun") entered the port of Klaipeda. One of the passengers on it was Mssr. Trouson, a member of the French mission in Poland. His task was to suppress the coup, but seeing that the Memel region was already occupied, and the French troops were actually imprisoned, the ship left. The Poles are late.

The Polish armed forces could intervene in the situation. However, the ominous profile of comrade Trotsky appeared from behind the gray forests and the Soviet units glittered with bayonets, which began to concentrate on the Polish border. The new Soviet-Polish war did not smile at Warsaw, despite the “Miracle on the Vistula” that had just happened. Thus, the USSR indirectly helped Lithuania take Klaipeda.

WELL WE ARE IN LITHUANIA
On January 19, the Directory of Klaipeda region requested to be admitted to Lithuania as an autonomous territory with a separate parliament and government, two official languages, the right to administer taxes and duties, independently conduct cultural and religious affairs, oversee the local legal system, agriculture, forestry and the social security system.

Let's stop for a moment to feel the moment. Lithuania "put with the device" on democratic procedures, the opinion expressed by the majority of the population, foreign territorial integrity and the decisions of the League of Nations! Not bad for a miniature republic, which is a week without a year. This is how history should be made, and you: "sanctions, sanctions ...".

What is the West - the guarantor of the status of "free city"?
On January 10, the governments of France and Britain, through diplomatic channels, asked Lithuania to "use all its efforts" to make sure that there are no attacks on people and their property. They also condemned support for the uprising from Lithuania.

1923. Uprising. Arrival at the port of the British light cruiser HMS "Caledon", who died on the streets of Memel, the arrival of the French destroyers.

France soon sent a small squadron to Memel. Great Britain also made a mark by sending the cruiser HMS Caledon. The negotiations with the Lithuanian rebels, which began on January 25, were not successful. The rebel committee refused to hand over the city to the French, and the patrols that came ashore were fired upon and returned to the ships. Then the French command developed a plan for the armed capture of Memel, supported by the British. On February 2 (preparing for a long time!) The British cruiser landed a landing party ashore to interact with the French infantry battalion that made up the Memel garrison. At the same time, an ultimatum was put forward to Lithuania demanding the return of the Memel region to the hands of the High Commissioner of the Entente. At the same time, the Entente promised that if the ultimatum was accepted, the Memel Territory would then be transferred to Lithuania.
Lithuania accepted the ultimatum, after which, on February 16, the Council of Entente Ambassadors decided to transfer the Memel Territory to Lithuania. This decision was subject to the condition that Lithuania fulfill the following requirements:
- autonomy of the region;
- freedom of transit and use of the Memel port by Poland;
- development of the status of the region and the conclusion of a special convention;
- equality in the region of the German and Lithuanian languages;
- equalization of civil and commercial rights of foreigners and residents of the autonomy.

In addition, at an unofficial level, it was emphasized that the transfer of Memel to Lithuania is a kind of compensation for the loss of the Vilna region (Vilnius), which Poland had previously torn off. In 1924, the actual transfer of Memel under the sovereignty of Lithuania took place.

Lithuania, having settled in the region, predictably took up the "de-Germanization" of new territories. The policy of planting the Lithuanian language was carried out, although, according to the census on January 20, 1925, out of 141,645 inhabitants who had the right to vote, 59,315 (41.88%) identified themselves as Germans, 37,626 (26.56%) as Lithuanians and 34 337 (24.24%) - to memellenders.
In 1926, a military coup took place in Lithuania. After the coup in December 1926, martial law was introduced in the Klaipeda region (which lasted until 1938), German parties were banned and the local parliament was dissolved, which was gross violation Memel Statute. At the request of the League of Nations, the Lithuanian authorities were forced to call new elections in the Memel region, which gave the majority to the German parties (25 mandates out of 29). However, already in 1932, the elected German authorities of Memel were arrested. The consequence was the appeal of the powers - guarantors of the Memel Convention to the International Court of Justice of the League of Nations, which demanded that Lithuania restore the rights of the Memel Parliament.


On the streets of Klaipeda between the wars. Signboards in German

The Lithuanian port of Klaipeda was actively developing. New structures were built, a new railway line was laid, and the fairway was doubled. Up to 80 percent of Lithuania's foreign trade turnover passed through the former Memel. If in 1924 there were 694 ships, then in 1935 there were already 1225. Soviet Russia also actively conducted foreign trade through the port of Klaipeda, defending its trade interests.

NOTHING IS ETERNAL

The cover of the Life magazine with the hero of the return of Germany to Memelland, the heavy cruiser "Deutschland"

But the happiness of a small state, under the guise of world clashes, cutting off its access to the sea, did not last long. The territories should go to those who really "really need it." Germany recovered from the defeat, built up its muscles and spread out a map on which “their” lands were marked, which, due to an absurd misunderstanding, belonged to those who had not been allowed to enter decent houses in Europe before.
And soon the smoke of an impressive squadron literally appeared on the horizon of Klaipeda, the flagship of which symbolically walked, built to replace the sunken ships of the old Kaiser fleet, the heavy cruiser (pocket battleship) Deutschland. On its bridge, defying seasickness, was Adolf Hitler himself, the chancellor of Germany. Personally.

To be continued

Two documents have survived to this day, dated July 29 and August 1, 1252 and signed by the Grand Commander of the Teutonic Order Eberhard von Zaine and Bishop Heinrich von Lutzelburg of Courland. According to them, the order founded a fortress in a swampy area on the left bank of the Dane River, which was called Memelburg (Memel is the German name for the Neman). Around this castle, originally wooden, a settlement grew very quickly, which received the Lübeck right already in 1254 or 1258 (according to other sources). Until 1923 (and in 1939-45) Memel was the northernmost German city, during the interwar period and after the end of World War II, this city was known as Klaipeda.
Old city Klaipeda-Memelya is now small, although it continues to be quite solid. About 60% of its buildings were destroyed during the Great Fire of 1854 and the fighting of World War II, but what remains still retains the atmosphere of old Memel, a city more North German in spirit than Lithuanian.

On the left on the hill (with the flag of the city) is the place where the Memelburg castle stood (a small number of ruins are present), on the right - the already familiar K-Tower and D-Tower.


In its stone incarnation, the castle looked something like this.


Development of the Dane embankment. On the right (next to the kebab shop) you can see the cash pavilion of the ferry to the Curonian Spit.


The castle hill is surrounded by a bay from three sides, where a lot of boats of varying degrees of luxury are moored.




Between the waterfront and the cruise terminal are several small houses that now house hotels and shops that cater to owners of yachts and boats.


Among them there are also interesting examples of modern architecture. The "Old Port Hotel" combines hi-tech and half-timbered houses in a wonderful way. It turns out high-werk or fah-tech.

Traditional half-timbered, of course, is also present.


Theater Square in Klaipeda, probably the largest in the Old Town. In the center is the building of the Klaipeda Drama Theater (1775), on the left is a modern extension to it. Here, tourists usually buy amber.


Building on the south side of the square.




Neighborhood of the Theater Square. She is behind me, the D-Tower is visible on the left, in the house on the right is the Old Hansa restaurant. In general, there are many restaurants in Klaipeda, where I really wanted to go only because of the names alone: ​​"Old Hansa", "Livonia", "Memelis". The latter also turned out to be a brewery, which predetermined the choice in its favor.


I repeat, the Old Town in Klaipeda is quite solid, although, of course, it could not have done without late inclusions. Closer to the Dane embankment, a whole block of modern buildings is growing, but how tactful they look in general. No one here is trying to deceive either residents or tourists. The new architecture looks exactly new, and does not try to mimic the Middle Ages with dummies, but at the same time it is high-tech in the historical environment, and it looks out of place here, making the city relevant.


Typical stalins also come across, and the situation is worse with them. Well, at least they covered it with tiles. The Market Street (Turgaus gatve), a reminder that the Theater Square was once a market place, goes to a distant pipe.


Now the Market Square is located on the southern outskirts of the Old City, and I went there along the streets, the names of which I now don’t even remember.


In the building with flags is the Museum of the History of Lithuania Minor.

Remains of old Memel.



Upper street (Aukstoji gatve). In the building on the left is the old post office, you can send a postcard to your homeland.

Only for Belarusians. Zianon's safe house.


On Castle Street (Pilies gatve) a monumental Stalinist building, now owned by the shipbuilding company "Baltic". On the spire, probably in Soviet times was the traditional star in a laurel wreath.



And finally, we come to the new Market Square, which, of course, is not new, but is still a market square. It occupies a rather large area of ​​land between Zamkova Street and Mira Avenue (Taikos prospektas).


At the Market Square, the Old Town ends, as this picture clearly shows.


Above the dog is the inscription "Old Town Watchman" (well, or something like that).

The tentacles of our distribution network have even reached Klaipeda.

Prospekt Mira ends on this square, leading to the residential districts of the city. In the distance behind the trees on the left is the Market Square, in front of the Old Town.


I remember this place for three things. First, an old bookstore sign. In Lithuania, this is almost gone.


Secondly, a statue of Neringa, a huge giant aunt who saved ships and sailors and, like, poured the Curonian Spit for this.

Well, the building behind Neringa is the Svyturis brewery (in Russian, by the way, it translates as "lighthouse"), one of the largest in Lithuania, the sister of our Alivaria. Surprisingly, there was no beer bar at the brewery (which, by the way, I counted on), its place was taken by some terrible Chinese restaurant.


From here, along Bridge Street (Tilto gatve) I moved in the opposite direction, back north to Dana. Unfortunately, this time it was not possible to see the Soviet Klaipeda in the south of the city. I still preferred instead to go to the Curonian Spit, to the sea.

Klaipeda(Russian Klaipeda, lit. Klaipėda, former German Memel, German Memel) is the third largest city in modern Lithuania (formerly also in the Lithuanian SSR) after the capitals of Vilnius and Kaunas. It is located in its western part, where the Baltic Sea passes into the Curonian Lagoon. The administrative center of the Klaipeda district. Due to its relatively southern location, Klaipeda is the largest port in Lithuania, like the Russian Kaliningrad, it is one of the largest non-freezing seaports on the shores of the Baltic Sea and the Curonian Lagoon. Even in Soviet times, the city gained fame as a popular resort. Klaipeda and the region adjacent to it have a special history, different from the rest of Lithuania, it is one of the most ancient cities in the country. Archaeological research indicates that it was inhabited by the ancestors of the Lithuanians - the Balts - in the first centuries of our era. Until 1525 it belonged to the knights of the Teutonic Order. Until 1923 - Germany, which was reflected in the architectural appearance of this Baltic pearl. Due to its history, the ethnic and linguistic appearance of the city was and is of a multinational character. In addition to Lithuanians, a significant number of Russians, Poles, Belarusians and others live in it.

Short story

Middle Ages

The settlements of the Curonians in today's city territory are known in the first centuries AD. e. In 1252, the knights of the German (Livonian) Order built the Memelburg castle, and then (1252–53) founded the city. The first document describes the laying of the castle on July 29, 1252 by the Master of the German (Livonian) Order Eberhard von Sayne and Bishop of the same Order Heinrich von Kurland (Henry of Courland), Count von Lutzelburg from Luxembourg. In 1384, Memel annexed the Teutonic Order with its center in Königsberg (Kaliningrad). From 1525 Klaipeda belonged to the Principality of Prussia, from 1629–35 to Sweden, and from 1701 to the Kingdom of Prussia. During Seven Years' War the city belonged Russian Empire(1757-62). In 1762-1871 it again submitted to Prussia. Since 1871 as part of the German Empire.

new time

According to the Versailles Peace Treaty (1919), the Memel region in 1920 was transferred under the collective control of the Entente countries. Under the leadership of the French viceroy, the region was governed by a directory consisting mainly of Germans. The French garrison was stationed in the city. In a referendum held in 1922, about 90% of the population of the Memel region voted in favor of declaring Memel a "free city", similar to Danzig.

In January 1923, the Lithuanian authorities staged an uprising with the help of disguised policemen and soldiers who arrived from Lithuania. regular army and members of the Shaulis paramilitary organization, totaling 1,500 fighters. The operation was commanded by Lithuanian counterintelligence major Jonas Budrys-Polovinskas.

The Lithuanians were opposed by 200 French Alpine shooters (the German police did not resist), the battles for the city went on for five days, and during the assault 12 Lithuanians, two Frenchmen and one German policeman were killed. The USSR, which defiantly concentrated its troops on the border with Poland, helped to avoid Poland's intervention in the conflict.

France sent a military squadron to Memel. Britain also sent the cruiser Caledon to Memel. Negotiations with the Lithuanian rebels that began on January 25 were unsuccessful. The rebel committee refused to hand over the city to the French, and the patrols that came ashore were fired upon and returned to the ships. Then the French command developed a plan for the armed capture of Memel, supported by the British. On February 2, a British cruiser landed an amphibious party ashore to interact with the French infantry battalion that made up the Memel garrison. At the same time, an ultimatum was put forward to Lithuania demanding the return of the Memel region to the hands of the High Commissioner of the Entente. At the same time, the Entente promised that if the ultimatum was accepted, the Memel region would then be transferred to Lithuania.

Then, after Lithuania accepted the ultimatum, on February 16, the Council of Entente Ambassadors decided to transfer the Memel region to Lithuania. This decision was stipulated by the condition that Lithuania fulfill the following requirements: 1) the autonomy of the region; 2) freedom of transit and use of the Memel port by Poland; 3) development of the statute of the region and the conclusion of a special convention; 4) equality in the region of the German and Lithuanian languages; 5) equalization of civil and commercial rights of foreigners and residents of the autonomy. In addition, at an unofficial level, it was emphasized that the transfer of Memel to Lithuania is a kind of compensation for the loss of the Vilna region.

These conditions were enshrined in the Convention signed on January 8, 1924 between Lithuania and the Allied Powers (England, France, Italy and Japan), to which the "Memel Statute" was attached, which was its integral part. Then, in 1924, the actual transfer of Memel under the sovereignty of Lithuania took place (before that, it was controlled by the Directory appointed by the Council of Ambassadors).

Lithuania pursued a policy of planting in the field of the Lithuanian language, although, according to the census on January 20, 1925, out of 141,645 inhabitants who had the right to vote, 59,315 (41.88%) identified themselves as Germans, 37,626 (26.56%) as Lithuanians and 34337 (24.24%) - to the memellenders.

After the right-wing coup in Lithuania in December 1926, martial law was introduced in the region, German parties were banned and the local parliament was dissolved, which was a gross violation of the Memel Statute. At the request of the League of Nations, the Lithuanian authorities were forced to call new elections in the Memel region, which gave the majority to the German parties (25 mandates out of 29). However, already in 1932, the elected German authorities of Memel were arrested. The consequence was the appeal of the powers - guarantors of the Memel Convention to the International Court of Justice of the League of Nations, which demanded that Lithuania restore the rights of the Memel Parliament.

In November 1938 martial law was lifted in Memel. In December of the same year, elections to the Memel parliament (sejmik), 87% of the votes were cast for a single list of German parties. On March 22, 1939, Germany issued an ultimatum to Lithuania demanding the return of the Klaipeda region, which Lithuania was forced to accept. On this occasion, Adolf Hitler arrived in Memel with a squadron of naval ships, and on March 23 he delivered a speech to the residents from the balcony of the city theater.

1945—1950

On January 28, 1945, Klaipeda was liberated by the Red Army. In 1944-45 the city was badly damaged. In August 1945, the Berlin (Potsdam) Conference of the Three Great Powers approved the transfer Soviet Union parts of East Prussia. The Memel region was de facto transferred to the USSR. In April 1948, the law on the administrative-territorial division of the republic was adopted, which for the first time mentioned the Klaipeda region as part of the Lithuanian SSR. By the Decree of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR of January 28, 1948, all residents of Klaipeda of Lithuanian nationality, who were Lithuanian citizens before March 22, 1939, received Soviet citizenship. Germans from Klaipeda could apply for Soviet citizenship on an individual basis.

After 1950

On May 20, 1950, the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR issued a decree, according to which a number of regions were formed as part of the Lithuanian SSR, including the Klaipeda region. The assertion that the Klaipeda region "was separated from the Kaliningrad region" is incorrect. The falsity of this statement is shown by the elections held in 1946 in the Koenigsberg region, which did not cover the Klaipeda region.

The industry of Klaipeda, especially its port, was restored and reconstructed. IN Soviet years The city was built according to standard master plans. Klaipeda University was founded in 1991.

Toponymy

Klaipeda changed its name several times. The fortress, founded by German knights, was called Memel, after the German name for the Neman. Near the German castle there was a Curonian village with the name "Klaipeda". At present, both this village and the castle mound constitute the historical center of the city. The Lithuanian state renamed it Klaipeda, the city bore this name in 1923-39. After reannexation Nazi Germany, the city again turned into Memel in 1939-45. It should be noted that the Lithuanian "Klaipeda", or rather Kaloypede, has been regularly used to designate the surrounding region since the 15th century. (first mentioned in 1413) Local toponymy primarily reflects Curonian names - Melnrage (Melnrage from Latvian - Black Horn / Black Cape), so ancient name Kaloypede is rather of Curonian origin. German compilers of local maps, as a rule, usually did not rename, but Germanized local names. For example - Pogegen, Pilsaten, Akmonischken, in which, although with difficulty, the ancient Curonian and Lithuanian names are guessed. The ancient Lithuanians used the name Memele to describe the swampy areas of the lower reaches of the river. Neman. In an ancient document describing the first campaign of the Teutonic Order in the "pagan lands", it is indicated that the detachment walked along the right bank of the Memele River for a long time, intending to go to its mouth. Without accurate maps, they did not know that the Neman flows into the Curonian Lagoon (see map). Continuing their march along the right bank of the bay, they came to the place where it flows into the sea, still thinking that in front of them is the mouth of the Neman. Accordingly, the founded fortress was called Memelburg. Later, the name was even mentioned in national anthem Germany ("Das Lied der Deutschen") as the easternmost city of the German lands: "Von der Maas bis an die Memel" ("From the Meuse to Memel").

Climate

The climate here is mild, maritime. This is due to the proximity of the sea. The climate of Klaipeda is close to the climate of Northern Germany, Southern Scandinavia, Holland, Britain and is characterized by strong weather variability, rainy, cool summers and rather warm, foggy winters. There is a very strong wind in Klaipeda, which often causes storms, sandstorms and causes considerable damage to the economy.

Residents, as well as visitors to the city, would do well to always have an umbrella on hand - you may need it at any moment. The instability of the weather sometimes brings amazing surprises, for example, in February, trees can bloom and grass turns green. This, of course, is a rarity, but this fact makes its own adjustments to the formation of ideas about the local climate.

Population

The population of Klaipeda in many ways reflected and still reflects the turbulent history of this city, in particular, its change of hands in the course of European conflicts. Since Memel was founded in the places of compact residence of Lithuanians (Zhmud or Samogitians), in the immediate vicinity of the Lithuanian state proper, unlike the kindred Prussians, the Lithuanians of Memelland were not completely assimilated in the district, although their share gradually decreased due to powerful Germanization. According to the German census of 1910, the population of the Lithuanian coast was 149,766 people, of which 67,345 people considered Lithuanian as their mother tongue (45.0%). But Lithuanians dominated only in the rural districts of the region away from the coast. At the same time, according to the same census, more than 82 thousand people (55%) recognized as native German. In Klaipeda itself, the German population absolutely dominated. The share of Lithuanians was small and constantly decreasing. Nevertheless, the city itself, with the assistance of the German authorities, turned into a major publishing center in the Lithuanian language in Latin, after which the books were smuggled into the neighboring territories of Russian Lithuania, where Cyrillic was used, and the Latin was banned.

As of 1920, 140,746 inhabitants lived in the Memel region, of which the majority were Germans - 71,156, and Lithuanians - 67,269 people. Really National composition the region was as follows: 41.9% - Germans; 26.6% are Lithuanians, and 24.2% are the so-called "Klaipeda Memellenders", ethnically close to the Germans; 7.3% were representatives of other nationalities. In the city of Memel itself, where the population was more than 21 thousand inhabitants (21.5 thousand in 1910), the German predominance here was overwhelming.

In 1944, it was badly destroyed during the fighting, and after 1945, when there was a mass deportation of Germans after the Second World War, it fell into disrepair. In 1946-53. new waves of settlers arrive in the city - at first Russian and Russian-speaking workers from the republics of the USSR, aimed at restoring industry. At first (until the end of the 60s), the Russian-speaking population prevailed in the city, including in the authorities, which was facilitated by the proximity of Kaliningrad, an important Russian city in the Baltics. By the beginning of the 70s, during the mass migration of Lithuanian peasants to the cities, Lithuanians for the first time in the history of the city became the predominant group. However, the city largely retains its multiethnic, bilingual character. Klaipeda can rightly be considered one of the main centers, the Russian-speaking capital of Lithuania, along with Vilnius and Visaginas. According to the latest Lithuanian census in 2001, Russians and Russian speakers made up 33.2% of the city's population.

Still, the overall population dynamics is disappointing. In the post-Soviet period, there is not only a negative natural increase, but also, after the admission of Lithuania to the EU, an intensive migration loss of the population, in contrast to neighboring Kaliningrad.

National composition

Lithuanian and Russian are widely spoken in the city. Russian-speakers have a network of kindergartens, schools and radio stations (Raduga Radio Station) in Russian. The local Russian-language newspaper, however, was recently closed. Former deported German residents of Memel and their descendants are called memelenders, they live more or less compactly on the territory modern Germany, support the history of their homeland on the portal memelland-adm.de

Attractions

The city was badly damaged during the great fire of 1854 (which killed 40% of its buildings) and the Second World War, after which 60% of the old buildings and all ten churches were lost. The remains of a fort on the Curonian Spit (XIX century), a castle in the Old Town (XV-XIX centuries), and several castle bastions have survived to this day. A regular network of streets has also been preserved, which was formed here in the 13th-15th centuries. (resembling a chessboard). Characteristic of the city are the quarters of stone warehouses, the oldest of which belong to XVIII century, as well as the buildings of the magistrate (1770s), the theater (1870s) and the neo-Gothic post office (1904). In Old Klaipeda, there are about 20 half-timbered buildings, many eclectic buildings. There are 9 professional and amateur theaters in the city (Musical, Drama, Castle, etc.), more than 10 exhibition halls and galleries, there are 9 choirs, 11 orchestras, 47 musical ensembles, a jazz club, a number of cultural centers and studios.

There are museums in Klaipeda that can be called unique - the Sea Museum and the dolphin show, the Clock Museum and the Museum of Blacksmithing, the Art Gallery. The vicissitudes of history are told by expositions in Historical Museum Lithuania Minor and Klaipeda Castle. In numerous restaurants and cafes of the city, you can taste traditional Lithuanian and European cuisine, as well as wonderful varieties of local beer.

Lithuanian maritime museum

Lithuanian Maritime Museum in old fortress Kopgalis and is distinguished by its complex exhibition, which presents marine nature, the history of navigation, ancient and modern fishing, marine science, and talks about pollution control environment and a wide, multifaceted range of relationships between man and the sea. The museum has been in existence for almost twenty years.

It is this versatility that distinguishes the museum from most specialized maritime museums in the neighboring countries of Lithuania. Another distinguishing feature of the maritime museum is its many exhibits. The first thing that attracts the attention of visitors is the live exhibits: fish, marine mammals, birds. Rich collections of corals and shells, numbering about 20,000 items and having a high scientific value, delight the eye in the presented exposition of marine fauna. Those who are interested in ships can see models of ships from different times, while the outdoor exhibition will introduce you to real ships and various anchor designs. The museum is surrounded by the sea, beautiful nature. The ethnographic fisherman's house on the shore of the Curonian Lagoon tells about life in a fishing village of the late 19th-early 20th century.

On the way to the museum, don't forget to see the boat built by Klaipeda fisherman Gintaras Paulionis (1945-94). Not being a professional sailor, but being a real fanatical lover of the sea, he independently built it on the basis of ancient drawings of Newfoundland ships. On June 28, 1994, he set off from Klaipeda in the hope of becoming the first Lithuanian to cross the Baltic Sea on an ancient ship, and on July 14 he reached the coast of Sweden, after which, proud of his victory, he soon set off back the same way. But on October 5, 1994, the remains of his small boat were thrown ashore in Nida. The body of the brave man was found ten days later. It is believed that the cause of his death was a storm, which claimed the lives of more than 800 passengers of the ferry "Estonia".

Museum Aquarium

Built in an old fort, the aquarium is home to penguins, sea lions and seals. Here you can watch water shows with the Black Sea dolphins and sea lions. Guided tours in Lithuanian cost 20 litas, in other languages ​​(Russian, English, German) - 40 litas.

Now in the aquarium you can see not only freshwater fish and fish from the Baltic Sea, but also such rare animals as gray seals. Specialists of the museum-aquarium have been breeding them for many years, in order to then release them into their native marine environment. There are exotic penguins from the far south and unprecedented coral reef fish that are rare even in tropical seas. In summer, fun performances by seals from the North Seas take place on the site behind the museum.

The Dolphinarium arouses well-deserved interest not only among the inhabitants of Lithuania, but also among the population of the entire Baltic region. Adults and children can learn a lot about the Black Sea dolphins by watching a theatrical performance with their participation.

The show also features a pair of Californian seals raised in the zoological garden in Duisburg (Germany). Marine sciences are of great importance today, since only with their help can a person understand the importance of protecting the environment and take care of it. The Lithuanian Maritime Museum consolidates its activities along the entire Baltic coast. Another, no less interesting side of the museum's activities is dolphin therapy for disabled children.

Clock Museum

Opened in 1984, located in a beautiful 19th century mansion. Here you can get acquainted with a wide variety of devices with which a person tried to measure time in different historical eras. The museum presents solar, star, fire, water and hourglasses. There is a unique collection of mechanical clocks from the 16th-19th centuries. The museum also has modern clocks - electromechanical, electromagnetic, electronic and quartz, as well as a collection of old lunar and lunar-solar calendars. Under all exhibits Additional Information– engraving, diagram and explanatory texts. The courtyard of the museum is very beautiful, in summer you can see a flower clock in it, it is used for various city events, as well as for listening to concerts of the nearby Klaipeda carillon. Address: st. Liepu, 12.

Art Gallery of Pranas Domšaitis

Opened on June 1, 1973. Located in the historical part of Klaipeda, on one of the most beautiful streets of the city, it occupies a complex of buildings of the 19th-20th centuries. The gallery's exposition includes painting Western Europe, Lithuania, Latvia, Russia, sculpture, graphics. Since 2001, there has been a permanent exhibition (about 600 works) of the European-scale Lithuanian expressionist artist Pranas Domšaitis (1880-1965) and a cultural center named after him, where various events are regularly organized. Address: st. Liepu, 31-35.

Blacksmith Museum

It was opened for the anniversary of the city in 1992. The exposition of the museum is openwork crosses, fences, gates, typical for Lithuania Minor, blacksmith tools, forged household utensils. A significant part of the exposition consists of grave crosses, fences, gates from Lithuania Minor and old cemeteries, collected by Klaipeda metal restorer Dionyzas Varkalis, as well as old weather vanes, typical only for the port city. In the operating restored forge, you can purchase original examples of blacksmithing art. In the 19th century, the smithy of master Gustav Katske, well-known throughout the Klaipeda region, was located here. Address: Šaltkalvių g-ve. 2 (Šaltkalvu street 2).

Museum of the History of Lithuania Minor

Located in the Old Town, in an 18th century building. The exposition introduces the life of the Lituvinians, the history of German-Lithuanian relations, in it you will see archaeological finds, old maps, photographs. Address: Didžioji Vandens g. 6 (Didzhoyi Vandyans street, 6).

Museum of Klaipeda Castle

Archaeological excavations on the site of the Klaipeda Castle began in 1968. In Soviet times, the castle was not accessible to the general public, since a shipyard was located on its territory. Today, the castle is increasingly becoming a place of attraction for tourists, which is facilitated by an interesting exposition of the museum.

sculpture park

“The Red Terror destroyed not only the living, but also the dead, and it was not stopped at the Klaipeda cemetery…”. This inscription in Lithuanian reminds visitors that until 1977 there was a cemetery where Germans and "Memelenders" were buried. The graves were razed to the ground at the direction of the Lithuanians, who at that time served in the structures of power in the USSR. Several graves have survived to this day in the northeast corner of the cemetery. In those years, marauders managed to remove from the destroyed cemetery and save unique iron crosses, which, after gaining independence of the republic, were returned to the state and are now in the Museum of Forgings. Intentions to restore the cemetery have been put on hold due to lack of funds. Now this is a pleasant place for walking, where among modern sculptures nothing will remind a tourist who is not familiar with the history of this place about the former cemetery.

Since 1977, a sculpture park has grown on the site of the old city cemetery near the railway and bus stations. Several gravestones remain in the northeastern part of the park.

local traditions

On the last weekend of July, Klaipeda becomes a very noisy city. Many people walk the streets and theatrical performances are held. This is the start of the merry sea festival, which has been held annually since 1934 in Klaipeda on the last weekend of July. Sometimes the feast of the sea is celebrated on August 1 and coincides with the birthday of the city since 1252. The main hero of the holiday is Neptune, who sails on an old ship along the Dane River. Many cultural events, exhibitions, concerts, as well as yacht races and fishermen's competitions are held these days. The memory of sailors who died at sea is honored. The holiday gathers about half a million participants. At the same time, the sailing regatta "Baltic Sails" is held.
"Poezijos pavasaris" ("Poetic Spring")

Prominent people

Many famous people were born and raised in Klaipeda. They glorified not only their hometown, but the whole of Lithuania.

Many famous basketball players have come from Klaipeda. Among them Arvydas Macijauskas (born in 1980) is a basketball player who surprises all of Europe with his game. Basketball players Valdas Vasilius (1983), Eurelijus Zhukauskas, Saulius Stombergas (both born in 1973) and Arturas Karnishovas (1971), as well as cyclist, Olympic champion, world record holder Gintautas Umaras (1963) were also born and raised here.

The famous writer Eva Simonaityte lived and worked in Klaipeda. She wrote many works dedicated to the history of Lithuania Minor and its people. The name of the writer is the Public Library and one of the streets of the city.

Another celebrity is the Klaipeda fisherman Gintaras Paulionis (1945-94). Not being a professional sailor, he built the ship himself using ancient drawings of Newfoundland ships. In 1994, he crossed the Baltic Sea on this ship and reached the coast of Sweden. He was not destined to return. The cause of his death was a storm, which also claimed the lives of the passengers of the ferry "Estonia". The remains of his ship were washed ashore, and the body was found ten days later.

Two documents have survived to this day, dated July 29 and August 1, 1252 and signed by the Grand Commander of the Teutonic Order Eberhard von Zaine and Bishop Heinrich von Lutzelburg of Courland. According to them, the order founded a fortress in a swampy area on the left bank of the Dane River, which was called Memelburg (Memel is the German name for the Neman). Around this castle, originally wooden, a settlement grew very quickly, which received the Lübeck right already in 1254 or 1258 (according to other sources). Until 1923 (and in 1939-45) Memel was the northernmost German city, during the interwar period and after the end of World War II, this city was known as Klaipeda.

The old city of Klaipeda-Memel is now small, although it continues to be quite solid. About 60% of its buildings were destroyed during the Great Fire of 1854 and the fighting of World War II, but what remains still retains the atmosphere of old Memel, a city more North German in spirit than Lithuanian.

In the first part, a hike from the Dane embankment to the southern border of the Old Town.

On the left on the hill (with the flag of the city) is the place where the Memelburg castle stood (a small number of ruins are present), on the right - the already familiar K-Tower and D-Tower.

In its stone incarnation, the castle looked something like this.

Development of the Dane embankment. On the right (next to the kebab shop) you can see the cash pavilion of the ferry to the Curonian Spit.

The castle hill is surrounded by a bay from three sides, where a lot of boats of varying degrees of luxury are moored.

Between the waterfront and the cruise terminal are several small houses that now house hotels and shops that cater to owners of yachts and boats.

Among them there are also interesting examples of modern architecture. The "Old Port Hotel" combines hi-tech and half-timbered houses in a wonderful way. It turns out high-werk or fah-tech.

Traditional half-timbered, of course, is also present.

Theater Square in Klaipeda, probably the largest in the Old Town. In the center is the building of the Klaipeda Drama Theater (1775), on the left is a modern extension to it. Here, tourists usually buy amber.

Building on the south side of the square.

Neighborhood of the Theater Square. She is behind me, the D-Tower is visible on the left, in the house on the right is the Old Hansa restaurant. In general, there are many restaurants in Klaipeda, where I really wanted to go only because of the names alone: ​​"Old Hansa", "Livonia", "Memelis". The latter also turned out to be a brewery, which predetermined the choice in its favor.

I repeat, the Old Town in Klaipeda is quite solid, although, of course, it could not have done without late inclusions. Closer to the Dane embankment, a whole block of modern buildings is growing, but how tactful they look in general. No one here is trying to deceive either residents or tourists. The new architecture looks exactly new, and does not try to mimic the Middle Ages with dummies, but at the same time it is high-tech in the historical environment, and it looks out of place here, making the city relevant.

Typical stalins also come across, and the situation is worse with them. Well, at least they covered it with tiles. The Market Street (Turgaus gatve), a reminder that the Theater Square was once a market place, goes to a distant pipe.

Now the Market Square is located on the southern outskirts of the Old City, and I went there along the streets, the names of which I now don’t even remember.

In the building with flags is the Museum of the History of Lithuania Minor.

Remains of old Memel.

Upper street (Aukstoji gatve). In the building on the left is the old post office, you can send a postcard to your homeland.

Only for Belarusians. Zianon's safe house.

On Zamkova Street (Pilies gatve) a monumental Stalinist building, now owned by the Baltiya shipbuilding company, was discovered. On the spire, probably in Soviet times, there was a traditional star in a laurel wreath.

And finally, we come to the new Market Square, which, of course, is not new, but is still a market square. It occupies a rather large area of ​​land between Zamkova Street and Mira Avenue (Taikos prospektas).

At the Market Square, the Old Town ends, as this picture clearly shows.

Above the dog is the inscription "Old Town Watchman" (well, or something like that).

The tentacles of our distribution network have even reached Klaipeda.

Prospekt Mira ends on this square, leading to the residential districts of the city. In the distance behind the trees on the left is the Market Square, in front of the Old Town.

I remember this place for three things. First, an old bookstore sign. In Lithuania, this is almost gone.

Secondly, a statue of Neringa, a huge giant aunt who saved ships and sailors and, like, poured the Curonian Spit for this.

Well, the building behind Neringa is the Svyturis brewery (in Russian, by the way, it translates as "lighthouse"), one of the largest in Lithuania, the sister of our Alivaria. Surprisingly, there was no beer bar at the brewery (which, by the way, I counted on), its place was taken by some terrible Chinese restaurant.

From here, along Bridge Street (Tilto gatve) I moved in the opposite direction, back north to Dana. Unfortunately, this time it was not possible to see the Soviet Klaipeda in the south of the city. I still preferred instead to go to the Curonian Spit, to the sea.

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