Maybe in your library there is a book by Pokhlebkin? About tea, vodka, cereals, pancakes, entertaining cooking? Then this is not surprising: the circulation of his books is approaching one hundred million, and it is published and republished all over the world. “A funny pseudonym,” you probably thought, “William Pokhlebkin is somehow exquisitely culinary.” The way it is. When a highly educated person has a hobby, he becomes a professional in it. So it was when the doctor V.V. Dal compiled the Living Dictionary of the Russian Language, doctor A.P. Chekhov became a classic of Russian literature. A candidate historical sciences V.V. Pokhlebkin became a historian of Russian cuisine.
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich
His full name is William-August. Born into the family of the revolutionary leader Mikhailov, the child received a revolutionary name: Wil-August. It is composed of the initials of the leader and the name of Bebel, a German revolutionary.
Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich is from the generation that in 1941, immediately after the graduation ball, went to the front. He was a scout, went through the entire war. He knew Serbian-Croatian, German, Italian and Swedish. In the last year he served as orderly at the soldier's kitchen, where his talents began to open up.
After the war, he graduated from MGIMO and worked at the Institute of History of the Academy of Sciences. Not finding a point of contact with the authorities, he quits and conducts research in private. On his fees from translations there is a magazine "Scandinavian Collection".
For a long time he lived on 38 kopecks a day, eating only tea and brown bread. His recipes were published in the Ogonyok magazine. The culinary column in the Nedelya newspaper was so valued that people bought the newspaper just because of it. "Science and Life" in parts published two of his books on its pages.
He was married twice, but family life did not work out. Children, daughter Gudrun and son August, now live abroad.
The scientist ended his life tragically - his body with traces of numerous wounds was found in the apartment on April 13, 2000. He was buried at the Golovinsky cemetery.
"History of vodka"
This is the name of one of the books of William Vasilyevich. And he himself is called "who beat off Russian vodka from the Poles." In international trade in the twentieth century, a situation arose when it was necessary to confirm the beginning of distillation in Rus'.
Strange, but neither the Institute of History nor the Institute of Fermentation Products could document the authenticity of the recipe for Russian vodka. Then Pokhlebkin got down to business and proved that in Russia they began to manufacture it a hundred years earlier than Poland.
The Arbitration Court confirmed this, and now real vodka can only be advertised by our country.
Bread
Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich collected Russian recipes with love. He details the chemical processes that take place as dough ages and bread is baked. Explains the difference between a metal sheet and a baking sheet by comparing baking results.
It turns out that the bread of all peoples turns out to be different, and this largely depends on the hearth. Hearth bread was baked in a Russian oven, a baking sheet was used for sweet pastries, and a leaf was used for cookies.
He begins his story about bread with a simple recipe, which he advises to immediately cook in a gas oven. It takes 15-30 minutes and the result is a delicious flatbread.
Here is the recipe: fifty grams of yeast (this is half a pack) is dissolved in 125 ml of water (half a glass), adding two tablespoons of flour. Set them aside and prepare the filler - finely chop the onion.
Then turn on the oven and continue to cook the dough. Half a glass of milk and a third of a glass of vegetable oil, onion, two pinches of salt are added to the sponge and flour is added, constantly stirring. The dough should be soft and easy to fall behind hands.
Cakes are made from this mass, a sheet is placed on the top shelf of the oven and baked for ten minutes over moderate heat. Then spread on a wooden board and cover with a towel. You can try after 25 minutes - then the bread will finally ripen.
Kitchen
Bit by bit, Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich collected recipes for Russian cuisine. It turns out that at the beginning of the twentieth century it was so vast and rich that it was compared with the French. The author notes several stages of its formation, each of which left a significant mark.
Russian cuisine is divided into two tables: lean and modest. They, in turn, are divided into noble and simple. The regional division of the country also influences culinary traditions.
All options, all examples of dishes, Pokhlebkin tries himself, only after that he recommends to his readers. This was used in the editorial office of Ogonyok, where he brought another recipe. Usually it has already been prepared and tasted.
William Vasilyevich deduced five laws of baking. Having mastered them, it is easy to cook with any number of products, even with some missing ingredients. Compiled 15 tips for the cook and 10 reminders for the kitchen. Explained the difference between frying and baking. It turns out that the barbecue is baked! He taught me to choose a pan for dumplings and a frying pan for stewing and frying.
For a young housewife, his books contain enough experience to learn how to cook.
Historical information about the food of Russians
What did our ancestors eat when there were no potatoes? It turns out that there are many delicious dishes. Turnip steamed in a Russian oven became sweet, they added oatmeal to it and ate it with pleasure. Kissel was also cooked from turnips.
We used a lot of river fish, distinguishing it by taste and compliance with certain dishes. Mushrooms were also cooked differently and in different ways. They made kvass, honey, urine.
Pancakes used to be called "mlyny", from the word "sweep". They were a ritual dish, baked red and served as a symbol of the sun.
For all names, William Pokhlebkin gives a description of the recipes and a detailed method of preparation. He believed that with a lack of food, one should not cook badly, one should do it even more nutritious and healthy.
He writes a lot about fermentation, in comparison with which pickling deprives food of vitamins. Learn how to prepare vegetables and fruits correctly. Modern dietetics has only now begun to promote healthy food processing, and Pokhlebkin has covered its biochemistry in detail a long time ago.
National dishes
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich compares recipes of Russian cuisine with recipes of the peoples of the USSR, Scandinavian, Finnish cooking methods. He is also a connoisseur of European cuisine. Reading his books will broaden your horizons.
Pokhlebkin speaks about sour milk in great detail, talking about the fermentation process and its types. Ayran, yogurt, varenets - this is from the cuisine of neighboring peoples. And in Russia there was cheese curd. So called curdled milk before.
In general, milk was not processed in any way until the nineteenth century. They drank raw, made cottage cheese. Oil appeared on the table quite recently by historical standards.
French chefs enriched Russian cuisine - they began to make salads, casseroles, minced meat, finely chop fillings into pies, make sauces, and mix products. Prior to this, there was a tendency to cook the whole carcass or plant, even boiled vegetables separately.
Okroshka
William Pokhlebkin has collected several recipes for various okroshkas. All of them are real folk dishes. In the peasant economy there was such a time in the summer when, in order to avoid a fire, it was forbidden to heat stoves. This was the royal decree of 1571. Although this dish has been known as “radish with kvass” for over a thousand years.
Okroshka is included in cold soups, including tyuri and botvini. It turns out that the okroshka recipe that is now being made in our country has nothing to do with a real dish.
First, no sausage. Since okroshka was prepared from various leftovers as an everyday dish, three types of meat were put: pig, poultry and game. Not all fish were suitable, only tench, perch or pike perch for a sweetish taste.
Secondly, it was not bread kvass that was added to it, but more sour white kvass. It was flavored with spices and sometimes put a little urination or pickles.
The basis was boiled vegetables. Greens and fresh cucumbers accounted for half of the vegetable volume. Hard boiled eggs and sour cream were added before meals.
William Pokhlebkin: books
Starting with cooperation in compiling the famous "Book of Tasty and Healthy Food", William Pokhlebkin continued this topic in his monographs on national cuisines.
He opens the "Secrets of Good Cuisine", writes the study "Tea and Vodka in Russia". Raising the layer of times, he systematized the history of Russian culinary culture and the most important food products.
Cooking books by William Pokhlebkin are written easily, with digressions and short stories on the topic. It is pleasant to read them, the style is elegant. In addition, they provide valuable knowledge. The author reveals the principles of cooking, not content with giving a dry recipe.
He also has serious scientific works: "Tatars and Rus'", a series about the foreign policy of our country, detailed description international symbols, modern history.
All that Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich left behind is books. They can be read online or ordered by mail. His books are a wonderful gift. Make yourself happy with them.
GREAT ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CULINARY ARTS.
ALL RECIPES V.V. POKHLEBKINA
You are holding a unique book in your hands. She will become an indispensable adviser for anyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, as well as learn how to cook not only according to the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of cooking and even creatively.
The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer was a real shock for the whole of Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not have heard about Pokhlebkin's wonderful culinary recipes or did not use his wise advice. Now gourmets have only his cookbooks left. This edition is an invaluable gift from the Master to admirers of his talent, because it contains all of his theoretical and practical culinary works.
Not everyone knows that V.V. Pokhlebkin is an international historian by profession and education, a specialist in the foreign policy of the countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949 he graduated from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in 1956-1961 he was the editor-in-chief of the international periodical Scandinavian Collection (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962 he collaborated with the Scandinavian magazine (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 For many years he worked as a senior lecturer at MGIMO and the Higher Diplomatic School of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.
It would seem that history and cooking are incompatible things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the colossal experience of Pokhlebkin as an international specialist formed the basis of his famous books on the national cuisines of the world.
Over the past three decades, V.V. Pokhlebkin remained an unsurpassed specialist in the theory, history and practice of culinary arts.
The book "Secrets of Good Cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the "Eureka" series. This is a popular presentation of the main issues of the practice of culinary arts, where the technologies of all existing culinary processes, their significance and role in cooking are described in an accessible language for non-professionals. She introduces the reader to the world of culinary art, talking in a popular way about the meaning and features of the culinary craft.
The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, as readers were already disillusioned with cookbooks that included descriptions of standard boring tricks and recipes. "Secrets of a good kitchen" turned the hackneyed idea of cooking as an exclusively female occupation that does not require precise knowledge of theory. The book opens up the prospect for any literate person to learn how to work professionally, of course, with an interested and conscientious attitude to cook's work.
The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. She has been translated into national languages republics, where they traditionally attached great importance to the preparation of delicious food and its quality. In 1982 it was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) it was published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 in Moldavian in Chisinau. In total, this work has withstood thirteen editions in twenty years.
"Entertaining Cooking", continuing the "Secrets of Good Cooking", was released a little later, in 1983. Here, special attention is paid to the more prosaic, but extremely important handicraft side of cooking. The book tells about the types of hearths (stoves, heating appliances), about the impact of different types of fire on the taste of food, about kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining Cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions.
The books “Spices, flavors and food colors” and “All about spices and seasonings”, as the author believed, will help make our culinary world bright and colorful, full of taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices gained international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.
The book “National Cuisines of Our Peoples” became just as popular, which included recipes for national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the Near Abroad, indicating the original, historically established technologies for their preparation. It gives a fairly complete picture of the culinary skills of nations, ethnic groups that have their own, pronounced national cuisine.
This research work was carried out for ten years both in the archives and in the field, in various regions. Perhaps that is why it aroused such serious interest among professional cooks in many foreign countries and was highly appreciated by them as a practical cookbook. On the initiative of the author's foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.
The sequel is the book "On Foreign Cuisines", which includes basic recipes for Chinese, Scottish and Finnish cuisine. The ethnographic approach taken by the author to the culinary heritage of nations helped to restore, restore the overall picture of culinary creativity, freeing it from unnecessary layers, and individual dishes from restaurant distortions allowed by ignorance or ignorance.
No less interesting is the continuation of "My Kitchen" - "My Menu". Here V.V. Pokhlebkin shares his own cooking secrets. The book consists of a commented list of those dishes of world cuisine that the author especially loved and prepared for himself personally only at special, solemn moments.
The collection ends with Pokhlebkin's famous "Culinary Dictionary", written in the late 80s. This book is designed to answer all the current questions of both a professional and an amateur, including a range of international (French, Latin, Greek, German, Chinese and others) terms, concepts, dishes and methods of their preparation that have developed over the entire rich thousand-year history of world culinary practice. The dictionary creates a complete picture of the world culinary art, where Russian, Ukrainian, Tatar and other national dishes that are familiar to us occupy a worthy place. "Dictionary" gives a brief description of all the terms and products mentioned (and not mentioned) in the book and greatly facilitates the use of the publication.
Collection of works by V.V. Pokhlebkina on culinary skills combines both purely practical material for studying culinary arts and various information on the history of culinary arts in Russia and other countries (Finland, Scotland, the Scandinavian countries, China), so the publication is of interest to the widest range of readers - from experienced chefs to young housewives.
William Vasilievich himself said that the purpose of his books is to help "acquire the skills to create such food, such food, without which our life would be boring, bleak, uninspired and at the same time devoid of something of our own, individual." Good luck to you!
SECRETS OF GOOD CUISINE
Chapter 1
After finally disabling the chameleon mode on my suit, I left the bike next to a suspicious dark alley and trotted off towards the nearest city park. Not the best choice, but I simply need rest, and there will definitely be a spreading tree, in the fork of which a small modest "clone" can spend the night.
At dawn, I slid with difficulty down the trunk of some lopsided giant and smoothed my disheveled hair with my fingers. I just felt disgusting about it. The action of the stimulants ended, weakness rolled in, and even the stomach howled plaintively, asking for something to eat. Given that the last time I dined at the estate, you can understand it. She thoughtfully looked at her bracelet - no one took out a crystal for cashless payments from there. And it’s unlikely that the lord would have been flattered by a couple of hundred loans that I carried with me to pay for all sorts of pleasant little things. Let's check it out! Having quickly reached the entrance to the park, she found a vending machine with all sorts of small things and pressed the bracelet against the payment plate, voicing the order for a couple of energy bars and a can of juice.
With a quiet rustle, the machine dispensed my breakfast. We live!
Having settled down in a small gazebo covered with flowers in the depths of the park, she calmly ate and climbed into the net. We need to plan what to do next. Oddly enough, there will most likely be no problems with money. Thanks to a contract with the Tarians, I had my own account in a galactic bank, where my share of the profits was transferred. Even a small, but constant income from the portal dripped there. Over the past year, I have not spent anything trying to raise money for the operation, so the amount has accumulated worthy. To get access to your finances, it will be enough to come to the bank and go through a full scan. In the same way, by the way, on any planet you can get a copy of documents and exam results.
But what to do next? Getting on some ship is fraught with a hare. Only when I got to know this world better, I realized how unrealistically lucky I was with Daren at one time. It can be seen that fate keeps for something! You can, of course, try to completely officially fly away from the planet on the nearest ship, but it is hard to believe that a lonely ten-year-old child will not attract attention and will not raise questions. However, the same problem will be when trying to rent a hotel room or rent some other accommodation. Hire someone as an escort? No matter how mistaken, there is no one to cover me here. If only one of the acquaintances of "grandfather" Faber will help. But we will leave this option as a last resort.
Whichever way you look - you can't live in the park or, excuse me, in the surrounding forests on grazing. This is not serious.
So, it looks like I'm just looking at the problem from the wrong side. Where is the best place to hide? And the answer is obvious. Among other children! Where can I find them? Yes, in the nearest boarding school! As the new school year begins. This is the perfect way out. Let them be surprised by the child who himself came and brought all the documents, but I think I can portray myself as such an independent and self-sufficient comrade.
The idea is good, especially considering that there are only a few days left before the start of the next school year. But for now, perhaps, there is no need to rush. And you need to consult with your friends. In the meantime, I'm going to the bank, it should be open by now.
Bank branches, to my displeasure, were located on the main streets. At any other time, I would happily stroll through them, admiring the architecture of the Old City or the fantastic skyscrapers of the new districts. But now I really didn't want to draw too much attention to myself. There's just no choice. I think it's time. Sighing, she unbuckled her kaires and tucked her horns into the pouch at her belt. I have long figured out how to remove this jewelry from myself, but I did not see the point in it. It is foolish to deprive yourself of an additional advantage. Without horns, I suddenly felt defenseless and vulnerable. Still no choice. After smoothing her hair and making sure that the twigs and leaves were not tangled there, she went out of the park to the street and sent an order for a taxi. Now I don’t have any special signs left - I cut off my long hair, took off the atypical “kaires”, a simple black jumpsuit did not attract attention, while at the same time covering the slave collar with a high neck. In general, a completely ordinary, unremarkable boy.
Having poured a couple of thousand credits into the crystal on the bracelet, I requested an account statement and rented a small cell. It is foolish to remove the horns from the forehead in order to carry them with you "in your pocket." Let them lie in the bank. Although I parted with them almost with tears in my eyes.
At the hardware store next door, I chose a simple, inexpensive "kires" made of matte black metal, which completely covered the red marks left on my forehead from attaching the stunner horns. Already at the exit, the throat was covered with a fiery streak. Blindly fumbling in my pouch for another portion of the vaccine, I injected the antidote into my neck with trembling hands and tried to leave the main street as quickly as possible. It seems that the body of Lord Al "Kress has already been found. Quickly they. Now we need to carefully follow the news. Oh, where is Payne now with his ability to catch the slightest nuances from seemingly very ordinary messages!
Reaching the nearest automatic cafe, I ordered a standard breakfast and sat down at a corner table. Fortunately, it was still too early, so there were hardly any people on the streets. In the cafe, besides me, there was only a tired man in a gray overalls of the city service - obviously just changed from the night shift. A good place to study the collar without being distracted. Using the sia-ten, I tried to scan my neckpiece and felt no response. Energetically, the narrow metallic strip felt… dead? It seems that after injecting the poison, the collar performed its function and turned off. So the people who gave the order are sure that I'm dead. Very good! With a jerk, she pulled off the now completely safe silver "velvet" from her neck, lowered it into the black mouth of the utilizer.
Half an hour later, with the help of a new "kaires" I contacted the portal. "Grandfather" Faber promised to shake the old days and arrange a merry life for the lord's heirs. Nevertheless, insider information about the sudden death of Al "Kress opened up many interesting financial prospects.
Tasha's mentor told me that a certain amount had been transferred to my account for warning about a planned crime on the Graine. And once again assured me that Daren would not suffer.
There were still no messages from Payne - apparently, my father's unexpected "companions" continue to control the virtual. Well, they can be understood - the artificial intelligence that controls the ship could at any moment block the doors in the cabin or, conversely, unlock the gateway. I hope Payne and Darren are okay.
My idea is to hide in one of the local educational institutions- unexpectedly supported "grandfather" Faber. As it turned out, he has some acquaintances, and he even sent a couple of students to the Tariu-Loss cadet corps. Too bad I don't age. But he learns, perhaps there is an option for an eleven-year-old child. The misunderstanding was resolved quickly: the corps was accepted after passing the exams for the average minimum. That is standard - in fifteen years.
I proudly turned up my nose and sent for review my own certificate with top marks. My interlocutor was sincerely delighted - this solved most of the issues. Now no one will even be surprised that someone is patronizing a smart, but not having special connections, child. So Faber Far-Therin will arrange, and I will be accepted to pass the exams. True, there will be no concessions - everything will have to be handed over for real. He will send the application on my behalf right now, so that today you can start answering the questions of the entrance exams. According to him, it is not worth staying at the hotel, it is better to go straight to the indicated address. You just need to take all the documents with you. Payment and other trifles "grandfather" Faber takes over.
An hour later, I was sitting on a wide stone curb near the closed gates of the cadet corps and, squinting in the sun, I was thinking. So much has happened in the last 24 hours that I didn't have time to react to events. I was about to be tortured. I killed a man. They tried to kill me. I survived. Perhaps only the last point was really important. I survived, but my enemy died! And it's stupid to reflect on this.
Very soon a new, probably no less interesting period of my life will begin. And in just a month, Darren will get to Grain and will definitely contact me. After all, he simply cannot die, but I'm waiting for him! Until then, I will study. I've always liked it...
Notes
1
GlavVred is an abbreviation for the Main Vredina. Ghoul's second affectionate nickname given by his beloved subordinates.
2
Large bright ring with a large precious stone or several (almost the size of the entire phalanx). Usually, besides him, other rings are not worn.
3
Slang term for Law Enforcement Forces. This power structure is similar to the terrestrial Interpol.
4
Glamor - originally a comic, and then accustomed name of the nanofilm used in the Federation instead of an artificial atmosphere. It can contain both a person (used similarly to our spacesuit), and entire asteroids. The nanofilm has a shape memory (like almost any invention of the Tarians) and, having the ability to stretch in any given direction, as a result returns to its previous parameters.
5
In this case, Zhenya and Daren did not understand each other. Darren meant that "cuckolds" are called jealous and cocky spouses, hinting at the rut and spring fights of horned males. And the history of "cuckolds" on Earth went from Byzantine emperor Andronikos Komnenos (1183–1185), who allowed the husbands of his mistresses to hunt in his menagerie. On the gates of those who had such an advantage, deer antlers were exhibited, for which their owners were dubbed "cuckolds".
William Pokhlebkin. Recipes of our life
In March 2000, under mysterious circumstances, the famous scientist William Pokhlebkin was killed at the door of his apartment.
Newspapers were full of scandalous headlines, but Pokhlebkin's life was no less mysterious than his tragic death.
At thirty-seven, William Vasilievich became a famous historian of the twentieth century. However, he was recognized only abroad. He spoke seven languages, but turned out to be "not allowed to travel abroad." At forty, Pokhlebkin was left without a penny of money and was doomed to starvation. At forty-five, a treasure fell on his head. At sixty, the whole world spoke of him as a brilliant cook, and at seventy-six, his mutilated body was found in his own apartment.
Why was a historian, culinary specialist, journalist, who devoted his whole life to his native country, not loved by the authorities?
And who could be behind his death?
The mystery of the death of the culinary specialist Pokhlebkin
Some thought he was crazy. Others have argued that he is a closet dissident who has deliberately lived his life outside the state, outside the system. Still others said that he traded his unique research talent for some nonsense - writing recipes, food books and gastronomic advice for housewives.
Those who thought so were wrong. The culinary talent and mind of William Pokhlebkin were in demand. His works have become a kind of school of tasty and healthy national food in the USSR. His recipes made it possible for thousands of ordinary Soviet people to try their hand at the art of cooking and feel the joy of creativity in their own kitchen.
Director: Vera Kilchevskaya
Screenwriter: Alexander Krastoshevsky
William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin
Was born: August 20, 1923, Moscow
Died: March 2000, Podolsk, Moscow region
- Shakotis
Biography
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich(August 20, 1923 - end of March 2000) - Soviet, Russian scientist, historian, geographer, journalist and writer. Author of famous cookery books. Connoisseur of the history of diplomacy and international relations, heraldry and ethnography.
V. V. Pokhlebkin is widely known, in particular, thanks to cookbooks that are fascinating and contain a lot of historical and interesting little-known information.
His cookery books Secrets of Good Cuisine and National Cuisines of Our Nations contain not strict recipes, but methods of preparing various dishes, including long-forgotten ones. To some extent, these books are also historical, as they contain information about the history of various dishes and cooking in general. Among professionals, he is known as the first theoretical chef in history, who gave the world cuisine a universal classification based on technology.
The book about tea - "Tea: Its types, properties, use" - is revered by many lovers of this drink.
The book "History of Vodka" was translated into English language and known all over the world (en: A History of Vodka).
William Pokhlebkin: top recipes of Russian cuisine
William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. They wrote more than one cookbook, according to his recipes of Russian cuisine, people still learn how to cook. woman's day collected the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.
Shchi rich (full): recipe
Ingredients:
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tsp. marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
Mushrooms and a potato cut into four parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion, all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
Studen: recipe
Ingredients:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 10 black peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes before cooking. - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little. Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat. Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
Roast: recipe
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 tsp. ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 tsp. salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, water every 10 minutes. little by little kvass, turning all the time. Fry for about 1-1.5 hours. For 5-7 minutes. until the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, refrigerate. When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat the juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce. Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated. Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
Pike in sour cream: recipe
Ingredients:
1-1.5 kg of pike, 1-2 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 tsp. ground black pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.
Fish with a specific odor (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) require special processing and preparation methods.
Peel the pike, rub it with pepper inside and out, pour over with oil and put it entirely in a deep frying pan on a ceramic stand (you can use a saucer) and open it in the oven for 7-10 minutes to make the fish brown. Then transfer to a tighter bowl, pour sour cream, half covering the pike with it, close the lid and put in the oven on low heat for 45-60 minutes. Put the finished fish on a dish, pour over lemon juice, and heat the resulting gravy on the stove until thickened, salt, season with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a gravy boat or pour over the fish with it.
Fried mushrooms: recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups of peeled mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 onions, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. parsley, 0.5 cup sour cream, 0.5 tsp. ground black pepper.
Peel the mushrooms, rinse, cut into strips, put in a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry over medium heat until the juice released by the mushrooms boils away almost completely; then salt, add finely chopped onion, add oil, mix and continue to fry over moderate heat until a brownish color is formed, about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley, mix, fry for 2-3 minutes, add sour cream and bring it to a boil.
In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook mushrooms for future use.
Oatmeal porridge: recipe
Ingredients:
2 cups of Hercules oatmeal, 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 liters of milk, 2 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. l. butter.
Pour the grits with water and cook over low heat until the water boils and thickens completely, then add hot milk in two steps and, continuing to stir, cook until thickened, season with salt. Season the finished porridge with oil.
Cabbage Pie: Recipe
Yeast puff pastry
Ingredients:
600 g flour, 1.25-1.5 cups milk (1.25 for a sweet pie), 125 g butter, 25-30 g yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for a sweet pie), 1.5 tsp. l. salt.
In the case of using this dough for sweet pies, add to it: 1 tbsp. l. sugar 1 tsp lemon zest, star anise, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: for nut, poppy - cardamom, for apple - cinnamon, for cherry - star anise, for currant, strawberry - zest).
Knead flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of butter into a dough, knead thoroughly and let rise at cool room temperature. Knead the risen dough, roll it into a layer about 1 cm thick, grease with a thin layer of butter, fold it in four, then put it for 10 minutes. to the cold. Then roll out again and brush with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, then let the dough rise in a cold place. After that, without dying, cut the dough for the pie.
Cabbage stuffing
You can prepare the filling from both fresh and stewed cabbage.
Chop fresh cabbage, salt, let stand for about 1 hour, squeeze the juice slightly, add butter and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs and immediately use for the filling.
Chop fresh cabbage, put in a saucepan under the lid, simmer over low heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, increase the heat, fry the cabbage lightly so that it remains light, add onion, parsley and black ground pepper, mix with hard-boiled chopped eggs.
Buckwheat-wheat pancakes: recipe
Homemade cracker kvass: recipe
Ingredients:
1 kg of rye crackers (best of all different - from Orlovsky, rye and Borodino bread, but not peeled), 750 g of sugar, 10-15 blackcurrant leaves, 50 g of raisins, 2-3 tbsp. l. liquid brewer's yeast or 25 g baker's yeast, 2 tbsp. l. dry mint (not peppermint).
Pour crackers dried in the oven to a light crust with 1 bucket of boiling water and leave for 12 hours. Separately brew mint, separately currant leaf with a liter of boiling water and leave for 5 hours. , sugar, boiled in 0.5 l of water, and yeast, stir and leave to ferment for 4 hours. Then remove the foam, strain, pour into bottles, adding a few raisins to each, and leave for 2 days for aging in the cold.
Based on homemade kvass, you can cook the main summer soup. We recommend a quick okroshka recipe.
Honey gingerbread (homemade)
Ingredients:
400 g wheat flour, 100 g rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or curdled milk, 125 g sour cream, 500 g honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of burnt sugar, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 cardamom capsules, 4 cloves, 0.5 tsp. star anise, 1 tsp lemon zest, 0.5 tsp soda.
Boil honey in a saucepan over low heat until red, removing the foam, then brew part of it with rye flour and stir with the rest of the honey, cool to a slightly warm state and beat until white.
Wipe the zhzhenka with yolks, add milk and knead wheat flour on the egg-milk mixture, after mixing it and mixing it with spices ground into powder.
Combine the honey-rye mixture with sour cream and the above mixture, whisking thoroughly. Place the finished dough in a greased form (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1-2 cm and bake over low heat. Cut the finished gingerbread plate into 4x6 cm rectangles.
These gingerbread cookies are not glazed.
Preparing burnt sugar. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it over moderate heat in a small thick-walled metal bowl, stirring all the time, until it turns yellow, then reduce the heat slightly and continue stirring until it becomes beige or light brown. At the same time, sugar should not burn, the smell should be specifically caramel, and not burnt. This is achieved by careful, continuous stirring and regulation of the fire. The resulting light brown candy is used to tint and give a "caramel" flavor to products.
Russian cuisine has long been widely known throughout the world. This manifests itself both in the direct penetration into the international restaurant cuisine of primordially Russian food products (caviar, red fish, sour cream, buckwheat, rye flour, etc.) or some of the most famous Russian dishes. national menu(jelly, cabbage soup, fish soup, pancakes, pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of Russian culinary art on the cuisines of other peoples.
Assortment of Russian cuisine dishes turn of XIX and XX centuries. became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe are so great that by this time they were talking about it with the same respect as about the famous French cuisine.
Russian national cuisine has gone through an extremely long path of development, marked by several major stages, each of which has left an indelible mark.
Old Russian cuisine, which developed from the 9th-10th centuries. and reached its greatest prosperity in the XV-XVI centuries, although its formation covers a huge historical period, it is characterized by common features that have largely been preserved to this day.
At the beginning of this period, Russian bread made from sour (yeast) rye dough appeared - this uncrowned king on our table, without it the Russian menu is now unthinkable - and all other important types of Russian bread and flour products also arose: the known to us saiki, bagels, juicy, donuts, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were prepared exclusively on the basis of sour dough - so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its historical development. The addiction to sour, kvass was also reflected in the creation of Russian real kissels - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern ones. Mostly berry jelly.
A large place in the menu was also occupied by various gruels and porridges, which were originally considered ritual, solemn food.
All this bread, flour food diversified most of all with fish, mushrooms, forest berries, vegetables, milk, and very rarely - with meat.
By the same time, the appearance of classic Russian drinks - all kinds of honey, kvass, sbitney.
Already in the early period of the development of Russian cuisine, a sharp division of the Russian table into lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and fast food (milk-egg-meat) was outlined, which had a huge impact on its further development until the end of the 19th century. The artificial creation of a line between the fast and the fast table, the isolation of some products from others, and the prevention of their mixing ultimately led to the creation of only some original dishes, and the entire menu suffered as a whole - it became more monotonous, simplified.
It can be said that the Lenten table was more fortunate: since most of the days in the year - from 192 to 216 in different years - were considered Lenten (and these fasts were observed very strictly), it was natural to expand the assortment of the Lenten table. Hence the abundance of mushroom and fish dishes in Russian cuisine, the tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grains (porridge), vegetables, wild berries and herbs (nettles, gouts, quinoa, etc.).
Moreover, such well-known from the tenth century. vegetables like cabbages, turnips, radishes, peas, cucumbers were cooked and eaten - whether raw, salted, steamed, boiled or baked - separately from one another. Therefore, for example, salads and especially vinaigrettes have never been characteristic of Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the 19th century. as a borrowing from the West. But they were also originally made mainly with one vegetable, giving the corresponding name to the salad - cucumber salad, beetroot salad, potato salad, etc.
Each type of mushroom - milk mushrooms, saffron mushrooms, mushrooms, ceps, morels, stoves (champignons), etc. - was salted or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is still practiced today. The same can be said about fish, which was consumed boiled, dried, salted, baked, and less often fried. In the literature, we meet juicy, “delicious” names of fish dishes: sigovina, taimenin, pike, halibut, catfish, salmon, sturgeon, stellate sturgeon, beluga and others. And the ear could be perch, and ruff, and burbot, and sturgeon, etc.
Thus, the number of dishes by name was huge, but all of them differed little from each other in content. Taste diversity was achieved, firstly, by the difference in heat and cold processing, as well as the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive, and much later - sunflower), and secondly, the use of spices. Of the latter, onion, garlic, horseradish, dill were most often used, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper and cloves, which appeared in Rus' already in the 10th-11th centuries. Later, in the 15th - early 16th centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, calamus (calamus root) and saffron.
In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there was also a tendency to consume liquid hot dishes, which then received the general name "khlebova". The most widespread are such types of bread as cabbage soup, stews based on vegetable raw materials, as well as various mashes, brews, talkers, salomats and other types of flour soups.
As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing was not difficult. Meat, as a rule, was boiled in cabbage soup or porridge, milk was drunk raw, stewed or sour. Dairy products were used to make cottage cheese and sour cream, while the production of cream and butter remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the 15th-16th centuries. these products appeared rarely, irregularly.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the XVI century. until the end of the 17th century. At this time, not only the further development of variants of the lenten and fast meals continues, but the differences between the cuisines of various classes and estates are especially sharply indicated.
From that time on, the cuisine of the common people began to become more and more simple, the cuisine of the boyars, the nobility, and especially the nobility, became more and more refined. She collects, combines and generalizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian culinary arts, creates on the basis of it new, more complex versions of old dishes, and for the first time borrows and openly introduces into Russian cuisine a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques, mainly of Eastern origin.
Particular attention is drawn to the modest festive table of that time. Along with the already familiar corned beef and boiled meat, twisted (that is, cooked on skewers) and fried meat, poultry and game occupy a place of honor on the table of the nobility. The types of meat processing are increasingly differentiated. So, beef goes mainly for cooking corned beef and for boiling (boiled slaughter); ham is made from pork for long-term storage, or it is used as fresh or milk pig in fried and stewed form, and in Russia only meat, lean pork is valued; finally, mutton, poultry and game are used mainly for roasts and only partly (mutton) for stewing.
In the 17th century all the main types of Russian soups finally add up, while unknown ones appear in medieval Rus' potash, hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles.
The lenten table of the nobility is also enriched. A prominent place on it begins to be occupied by balyk, black caviar, which was eaten not only salted, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk.
Culinary of the 17th century strong influence renders eastern and, first of all, Tatar cuisine, which is associated with the accession in the second half of the 16th century. to the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan khanates, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that dishes from unleavened dough (noodles, dumplings), such products as raisins, apricots, figs (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which has since become traditional in Russia, enter Russian cuisine. Thus, the sweet table is significantly replenished.
Next to the gingerbread, known in Rus' even before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of gingerbread, sweet pies, candy, candied fruits, numerous jams, not only from berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in molasses) . In the second half of the XVII century. Cane sugar began to be brought to Russia (1), from which, together with spices, candies and snacks, sweets, delicacies, fruits, etc. were cooked. But all these sweet dishes were mainly the privilege of the nobility (2).
- (1) The first refinery was founded by the merchant Vestov in Moscow at the beginning of the 18th century. He was allowed to import cane raw materials duty-free. Sugar factories based on beet raw materials were created only at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries. (The first plant is in the village of Alyabyevo, Tula province).
(2) The menu of the patriarchal dinner for 1671 already contains sugar and candy.
At the same time, there is a desire to decorate dishes. Palaces are built from foodstuffs, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions. Court dinners turn into a pompous, magnificent ritual that lasts 6-8 hours in a row - from two in the afternoon to ten in the evening - and includes almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two dozen) of the same name dishes, for example from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from a dozen types of pancakes or pies (3).
- (3) The order of serving dishes at a rich festive table, consisting of 6-8 changes, finally took shape in the second half of the 18th century. However, one dish was served at each break. This order was preserved until the 60-70s of the XIX century:
1) hot (soup, soup, fish soup);
2) cold (okroshka, botvinya, jelly, jellied fish, corned beef);
3) roast (meat, poultry);
4) body (boiled or fried hot fish);
5) pies (unsweetened), kulebyaka;
6) porridge (sometimes served with cabbage soup);
7) cake (sweet pies, pies);
8) snacks.
All kinds of casseroles and puddings turned out to be alien to the ancient Russian cuisine. The desire to cook a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from a whole animal or plant, persisted until the 18th century. The exception seemed to be fillings in pies, in whole animals and poultry, and in their parts - abomasum, omentum. However, in most cases, these were, so to speak, ready-made fillings, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they were not cut either). The fish for the filling was only plastified, but not crushed. And only much later - at the end of the XVIII century. and especially in the nineteenth century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some fillings began to grind on purpose.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine begins at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries. and lasts a little more than a century - until the first decade of the XIX century. At this time, there is a radical delimitation of the cuisine of the ruling classes and the cuisine of the common people. If in the 17th century the cuisine of the ruling classes still retained a national character and its difference from the folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in terms of quality, abundance and assortment of products and dishes it sharply surpassed the folk cuisine, then in the 18th century. the cuisine of the ruling classes gradually began to lose the Russian national character.
Since the time of Peter the Great, the Russian nobility and the rest of the nobility have been borrowing and introducing Western European culinary traditions. Wealthy nobles who visited Western Europe, bring with them foreign chefs. At first they were mostly Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and predominantly French. From the middle of the XVIII century. foreign cooks were discharged so regularly that they soon almost completely replaced the cooks and serf cooks from the higher nobility.
One of the new customs that appeared at this time should be considered the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses that came from the West and hitherto unknown on the Russian table were combined with old Russian dishes - cold corned beef, jelly, ham, boiled pork, as well as caviar, salmon and other salted red fish in a single serving or even in a special meal - breakfast.
There were also new alcoholic drinks - ratafii and erofeichi. Since the 70s of the XVIII century, when tea began to gain more and more importance, in the highest circles of society, sweet pies, pies and sweets stood out beyond the dinner table, which were combined with tea in a separate serving and dated for 5 pm.
Only in the first half of the 19th century, after Patriotic War 1812, in connection with the general rise of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophil circles with foreign influence, the leading representatives of the nobility begin to revive interest in the national Russian cuisine. However, when in 1816 the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to compile the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that “information about Russian dishes has almost completely disappeared” and therefore “it is now impossible to imagine complete description Russian cookery and should be content only with what can still be collected from the memory, for the history of Russian cookery has never been given to description” (4). As a result, the descriptions of Russian cuisine dishes collected by V. A. Levshin from memory were not only not accurate in their recipe, but also in their assortment far from reflecting the real richness of the dishes of the Russian national table.
- (4) Levshin V. A. Russian cookery. M., 1816.
A number of French chefs worked in Russia during this period, radically reforming the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes. The first French chef who left a mark on the reform of Russian cuisine was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few chefs-researchers, chefs-scientists. Before coming to Russia at the invitation of Prince P.I. Bagration, Karem was the cook of the English Prince Regent (future King George IV), Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyrand. He was keenly interested in the cuisines of various nations. During his short stay in Russia, Karem got acquainted with Russian cuisine in detail, appreciated its merits and outlined ways to free it from alluvial.
Karem's successors in Russia continued the reform he had begun. This reform touched, firstly, the order of serving dishes to the table. adopted in the 18th century. The “French” serving system, when all dishes were put on the table at the same time, was replaced by the old Russian way of serving, when one dish replaced another. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and a sequence was introduced in serving dinner, in which heavy dishes alternated with light and appetizing ones. In addition, whole-cooked meat or poultry was no longer served on the table; before serving, they began to be cut into portions. With such a system, decorating dishes as an end in itself has lost all meaning.
The reformers also advocated the replacement of dishes from crushed and mashed products, which occupied a large place in the cuisine of the ruling classes in the 18th and early 19th centuries, with dishes from natural products more typical of Russian cuisine. So there were all kinds of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural steaks, bedbugs, langets, entrecotes, escalopes.
At the same time, the efforts of culinary specialists were aimed at eliminating the heaviness and indigestibility of some dishes. So, in the recipes for cabbage soup, they discarded the flour podbolt that made them tasteless, which was preserved only by virtue of tradition, and not common sense, they began to widely use potatoes in garnishes, which appeared in Russia in the 70s of the 18th century.
For Russian pies, they suggested using soft puff pastry made from wheat flour instead of rye sour. They also introduced a safe method of preparing dough with pressed yeast, which we use today, thanks to which the sour dough, which previously took 10-12 hours to prepare, began to ripen in 2 hours.
French chefs also paid attention to appetizers, which became one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. the German form of serving snacks prevailed - sandwiches, then in the 19th century. they began to serve appetizers on a special table, each type on a special dish, beautifully decorating them, and thus expanded their assortment so much, choosing among the appetizers a whole range of old Russian not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable sauerkraut dishes, that their abundance and variety henceforth never ceased to be a constant object of astonishment to foreigners.
Finally, french school introduced a combination of products (vinaigrettes, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages in recipes that were not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, and introduced Russian cuisine to unknown types of Western European kitchen appliances.
IN late XIX V. the Russian stove and pots and cast-iron pots specially adapted to its thermal regime were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, stewpans, etc. Instead of a sieve and a sieve, they began to use colanders, skimmers, meat grinders, etc.
An important contribution of French culinary specialists to the development of Russian cuisine was the fact that they prepared a whole galaxy of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanov, G. Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, Z. Eremeev, N. Khodeev, P. Vikentiev and others, who supported and spread the best traditions of Russian cuisine in throughout the 19th century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practitioners, but also left behind extensive manuals on Russian cooking.
In parallel with this process of updating the cuisine of the ruling classes, carried out, so to speak, “from above” and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. estates until the 70s of the XIX century. The source for this collection was folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of nameless and unknown, but talented serf cooks took part.
By the last third of the XIX century. Russian cuisine of the ruling classes, thanks to the unique assortment of dishes, their exquisite and delicate taste, began to occupy one of the leading places in Europe along with French cuisine.
At the same time, it must be emphasized that, despite all the changes, introductions and foreign influences, its main character traits have been preserved and have remained inherent in it to the present, as they were steadfastly kept in the folk cuisine. These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: an abundance of dishes, a variety of snack tables, a love for eating bread, pancakes, pies, cereals, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom tables, the widespread use of pickles from vegetables and mushrooms, an abundance of a festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, Easter cakes, etc.
Some features of Russian cuisine should be said in more detail. Even at the end of the XVIII century. Russian historian I. Boltin noted characteristics Russian table, including not only the prosperous. IN countryside four meals were taken, and in the summer at work time - five: breakfast, or interception, afternoon tea, earlier than lunch, or at noon sharp, lunch, dinner and pauzhin.
These vyti, adopted in Central and Northern Russia, were also preserved in Southern Russia, but with different names. There at 6-7 o'clock in the morning they ate, at 11-12 they dined, at 14-15 they had an afternoon snack, at 18-19 they ate in the evening, and at 22-23 they had supper. With the development of capitalism, the working people in the cities began to eat at first three, and then only two times a day: breakfast at dawn, lunch or dinner when they came home. At work, they only had an afternoon snack, that is, they ate cold food. Gradually, any full meal, a full table with hot brew, began to be called lunch, sometimes regardless of the time of day.
Bread played an important role at the Russian table. For shchi or other first liquid dish in the village, they usually ate from half a kilo to a kilogram of black rye bread. White bread, wheat, was not actually distributed in Russia until the beginning of the 20th century. It was eaten occasionally and mostly by the wealthy segments of the population in the cities, and among the people they looked at it as a festive meal. Therefore, white bread, called a bun in a number of regions of the country (5), was not baked in bakeries, like black bread, but in special bakeries and sweetened slightly. Local varieties of white bread were Moscow saiki and kalachi, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai bagels, etc. Black bread differed not by the place of manufacture, but only by the type of baking and the type of flour - baked, custard, hearth, peeled, etc.
- (5) "Bulka" - from French word boule, which means "round like a ball." Initially, only French and German bakers baked white bread.
The first liquid dishes, called from the end of the 18th century, retained unchanged importance in Russian cuisine. soups. Soups have always played a dominant role on the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. It appeared with us earlier than the fork by almost 400 years. “A fork is like a hook, and a spoon is like a net,” said a popular proverb.
The assortment of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, mash, stew, fish soup, pickles, saltwort, botviny, okroshka, prisons - continued to grow in the 18th-20th centuries. various types Western European soups like broths, pureed soups, various dressing soups with meat and cereals, which took root well thanks to the love of the Russian people for hot liquid brew.
In the same way, many soups of the peoples of our country have received a place on the modern Russian table, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beetroot soups and soups with dumplings. Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereal soups, were obtained from liquefied slurry-zaspitsa (i.e. slurry with vegetable filling) or are the fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, it is not they, despite their diversity, but the old, primordially Russian soups like cabbage soup and fish soup that still determine the originality of the Russian table.
To a lesser extent than soups, fish dishes have retained their original significance on the Russian table. Some classic Russian fish dishes, like telnoye, have fallen into disuse. On the other hand, they are delicious and easy to make. It is quite possible to cook them from sea fish, which, by the way, was used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. The inhabitants of these breadless regions in those days have long been accustomed to cod, halibut, haddock, capelin, navaga. “Lack of fish is worse than lack of bread,” the Pomors used to say then.
Known in Russian cuisine are steam, boiled, calf fish, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, fried, mended (filled with porridge or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in a pan in sour cream , salted (salted), dried and dried (sushchik). In the Pechora and Perm regions, fish was also fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate stroganina - frozen raw fish. Only the method of smoking fish was not widespread, which was developed mainly only in the last 70-80 years, i.e. since the beginning of the 20th century.
Characteristic of the old Russian cuisine was the widespread use of spices in a fairly large assortment. However, the decline in the role of fish, mushroom and game dishes, as well as the introduction of a number of German dishes into the menu, has affected the reduction in the share of spices used in Russian cuisine.
In addition, due to the high cost, many spices, as well as vinegar and salt, have been sold since the 17th century. people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put it on the table and use it already during meals, depending on the desire of everyone. This custom gave rise to later assert that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices. At the same time, they referred to the well-known essay by G. Kotoshikhin about Russia in the 17th century, where he wrote: “There is a custom to cook without seasonings, without pepper and indigo, lightly salted and without vinegar.” Meanwhile, the same G. Kotoshikhin further explained: “And as soon as they start the nets and in which there is little vinegar and salt and pepper, they add them to the table” (6).
- (6) Kotoshikhin G. About Russia in the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich. SPb. 1840.
Finally, in conclusion, it is necessary to dwell on some technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.
For a long period of development of Russian national cuisine, the process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking products in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. What was intended for boiling was boiled from beginning to end, what was intended for baking was only baked. Thus, Russian folk cuisine did not know what combined or even different, combined or double heat treatment was.
The heat treatment of food consisted in heating with the heat of a Russian stove, strong or weak, in three degrees - “before bread”, “after bread”, “in the free spirit” - but always without contact with fire and either with a constant temperature kept at the same level, or with a falling, decreasing temperature as the oven gradually cools down, but never with an increasing temperature, as in stovetop cooking. That is why the dishes always turned out not even boiled, but rather stewed or half-stewed, half-stewed, which is why they acquired a very special taste. Not without reason, many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make the proper impression when they are cooked in other temperature conditions.
Does this mean that it is necessary to restore the Russian stove in order to get modern conditions real dishes of Russian cuisine? Far from it. Instead, it is enough to simulate the thermal regime of falling temperature created by it. Such imitation is possible under modern conditions.
However, we should not forget that the Russian stove had not only a positive effect on Russian cuisine, but to a certain extent also a negative one - it did not stimulate the development of rational technological methods.
The introduction of plate cooking led to the need to borrow a number of new technological methods and, along with them, dishes from Western European cuisine, as well as to the reform of dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refining and development, and adaptation to new technology. This trend has proven to be fruitful. It helped save many dishes of Russian cuisine from oblivion.
Speaking of Russian cuisine, we have so far emphasized its features and characteristics, examined the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, one should keep in mind the pronounced regional differences in it, explained mainly by the diversity natural areas and the related dissimilarity of plant and animal products, the different influences of neighboring peoples, as well as the diversity social structure population in the past.
That is why the cuisines of Muscovites and Pomors, Don Cossacks and Siberians are very different. While in the North they eat venison, fresh and salted sea fish, rye pies, dezhni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, in the Don they roast and stew steppe game, eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, drink grape wine and cook pies with chicken meat. If the food of the Pomors is similar to Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Lappish (Sami), then Turkish, Nogai cuisines had a noticeable influence on the cuisine of the Don Cossacks, and Russian population in the Urals or Siberia follows the Tatar and Udmurt culinary traditions.
Regional features of a different plan have long been also inherent in the cuisines of the old Russian regions of Central Russia. These features are due to the medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. Moreover, they manifested themselves in the field of cuisine not in major dissimilarities, such as differences in cooking technology or in the availability of their own dishes in each region, as was the case, for example, in Siberia and the Urals, but in differences precisely between the same dishes, in differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless quite persistent.
A vivid example of this is at least such common Russian dishes as fish soup, pancakes, pies, cereals and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but each region had its own favorite types of these dishes, their own minor differences in their recipes, their own appearance. , their methods of serving to the table, etc.
We owe this, if I may say so, “small regionality” to the emergence, development and existence so far, for example, different types gingerbread - Tula, Vyazma, Voronezh, Gorodetsky, Moscow, etc.
Regional differences, both large and small, naturally enriched Russian cuisine even more and diversified it. And at the same time, all of them did not change its basic character, because in each specific case, the above-mentioned common features, which together distinguish the national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific Ocean.
